Jacket Or Suit Fusing:
When we are talking about jacket manufacturing then we have to go through internal material requirement of a jacket where fusing plays a significant role. Good quality jackets or suit need to be fused on several parts while its get sewn to give good drape upon wearing. In this blog you will find out why fusing require on several parts of jacket or suit and how we can use interlinings to make a quality product.
Here we go Through part wise fusing guidelines of a quality product jacket or suit:-
Front Panel fusing: Three types of fusing commonly used to make a jacket or suit. After detailing of all these three fusing will see where have to use these fusing in front panel and side panel as well on sleeve.
1. Woven fusing:- Also known as Body net fusing. Mostly used on front panel of jacket. For Jacket and suits polyester woven fusing is preferred to use with GSM Varies between 40 to 90 as per fabric material and there thickness. Below are the benefits of woven fusing on garments.
* It helps to give curve and shape to garments.
* Enhance wrinkle resistance and elasticity of clothes.
* It Improves garment drape and enhance the stereo feeling.
* Prevents garment distortion and ensure to achieve an anticipative design effect.
* Enhance the sense of thick, rich and warmness of clothes.
* It improves sewing efficiency and so on.
Note: Body net fusing color selection should be as per shell fabric. If fabric is lighter color then fusing color should be lighter or else darker color fusing will visible out side. Same applied for darker shell fabric also - if shell fabric is darker color then the fusing color selection should be also dark color only.
2. Non woven fusing: Also known as micro dot fusing. Uses of micro dot fusing on parts depends upon fabric quality and garments design. 100% polyester material prefer for making jacket and suits. GSM of the fusing varies between 15 to 50 as per fabric quality. See below specifications of micro dot fusing on garments.
* Enhance shrink resistance of shell fabric.
* Increase tear capability of shell fabric.
* It gives soft feel to fabric.
Note: Fusing color selection should be as per shell fabric color. Lighter color fusing for light color shell and dark color fusing for darker color shell fabric.
3. Reinforcement Fusing:- Also Non as NR Fusing. 100% Polyester material with thread inside which helps to control fabric stretch-ability to give proper shape to the garment without any shape distortion.
Uses of These three fusing on front panel and side panel of jacket or suit:
Look at the below picture of fussed front panel of jacket with these above all three fusing. Will go through the detailing of uses after seeing the image.
* Darker area indicates uses of woven fusing. Its mostly used on front part to give harder oval look to jacket which is the first requirement of it.
* Non woven fusing used on shoulder area after using woven fusing as shoulder shape need to be more stuff while making jacket or suits. Its also used on other parts like side and arm hole separately to give shapes on those area's.
* On the above image we can able to see that NR fusing mostly got used on side seam area's as well on corner's to hold the fabric drop if upon stitching even the if the fabric wait is more.
Note:- Canvas is also playing master roll in jacket or suit manufacturing. Will go through canvas detailing in my next blog.
