Formal blazer operation break down

Blazer operation break down(OB) : As we know formal jacket is combination of three layer materials( Body fab, Lining, interlining & canvas). That's why Jacket manufacturing known as lengthy and complicated process. It's not an easy task to make Formal category jacket Operation bulletin. 

Formal jacket SAM approximately calculated from 95- 105 Minutes. Depending upon style and no of pocket plays an important role.

In this article will go through all operation of a formal blazer and we can calculate the actual SAM of a formal blazer.

For better understanding will go through the man power requirement as well which can help most of people those who are interested in jacket production or jacket manufacturing set up. 

No of machine for the planned quantity is also going to mention in this article which can help to set a jacket production line.

Going to start with the format :-

As you can see in above format, there is style description mentioned - Men's jacket with elbow patch in checks fabric. 

Per day planned qty set up is for -600pcs. In this format section is also mentioned which categories all operation into section wise requirement. 

As have mentioned in my previous articles - jacket production can be categories in to five  section as below.

1. Sleeve, 2. lining & collar, 3. Body, 4. Assembly-1 , 5. Assembly -2.

Sleeve section SAM and Manpower allocation:-

As you can see in above chart of sleeve section, In the bottom the man power allocation has sown as below:-

Operators Man power-17.5

Indirect workers- 8.5, Ironer-6. and the SAM of sleeve section will be- 17.27.

Like this we go through other next section of lining  & collar :-

Lining and collar Section SAM and manpower allocation calculation done as below:

Operators requirements: 29.50, Indirect workers:- 4, Ironer:-7 and

SAM-23.41.

Next Section is Body Section:

Body Section SAM and manpower allocation total numbers are as below:

Operators:-31, Indirect workers:- 11, Ironer:- 8 and 

SAM :-24.32.

Assembly -1 section:-

Assembly-1 section Break up as below:- 

SAM:-20.95, Operators:-19.5, Indirect workers:-7 , Ironer:- 14

Assembly-2  Operation bulletins are as below:

Assembly -2  section final calculation sown as below:-

Total No of operators: 22.50, Indirect workers- 9, Ironer -2

and SAM of this section is:- 15.84

We have covered all section operation break down of a formal jacket or blazer which made in industrial jacket manufacturing units.

These timing data may change organization to organization as every one jacket manufacturer following there own concept of making blazer. So its might possible to change in data at Some operations and timing calculation change as per  operation data.

Now we calculate the all section Operation together and calculate the total data as below.

Total calculation shown as operator no-119, indirect workers-39.50, Ironers:- 35.

Total Sam of this jacket in particular organization calculated as - 95.61

In above all section chart the total actual manpower data no can very from chart as the over all actual requirement taken in to calculation.

After Getting the manpower and SAM detail will check the actual no of machine requirement against this OB.

 

Total No of machine list has shown in above chart.

Note:- Pressing section we have not taken in this chart so the calculation of machine number and manpower detail is against stitching line only.

Technical sewing operations of formal blazer.

Technical Sewing Operations : Formal blazer made with two layers having canvas and felt in between to give formal body shape visualization to a jacket.

Formal category apparel need proper visual attractive look to impress customer. Raw material quality surely play an important role in terms of product feel as well its look.

To give proper visual attractive look as per body shape to a jacket, we will discuss here about some operation which reflects out side visual look of a jacket.

Bottom Seam in a double breasted Jacket: Below image indicating the seam margin difference in both front panel at bottom

As per image the deference in margin should be 0.5cm more in right side bottom compare to left. It helps to hide the stitch at cross point. 

Under collar felt attachment: When attaching collar felt on collar it should be overlapped 0.5 to 0.7cm on under collar band.

Over lapping felt helps to increase bulginess on collar folding point area. It improves the collar stand/drag in proper way to look perfect.

Side and Centre vent attachment: When making vent at back (Either center vent or side vent). the sewing angle of vent should be in 90*. It helps the vent folding look good upon turning out.

Shoulder Pad setting: Shoulder pad setting is the most important operation in terms of jacket making

In below drawing its indicated that the chest piece should get overlapped on shoulder pad. Both suppose to place in curve shape following the human body structure. Fall of chest going to be oval with this technique.

Sleeve Seam at top: Top sleeve seam must be opened at both front and back side, Front should be more comparing back approx. 1cm.

 

Sleeve seam opening helps to cover shoulder pad pick point, It gives clean look to sleeve fall from shoulder.

 

Chest Pocket Bag Reinforcement: While assembling the jacket after making body, lining and sleeve part,

There is some operation need to be done inside to avoid any technical issue. Here we are discussing about pocket bag fixation. You can able to see the pocket bag tucked with armhole and lapen to hold the bag so it could not change his actual shape while wearing.

If inside pocket bag tucked securely then its give clean look on front area or else if pocket bag moved inside then the folded bag impression will visualize upon wearing. 

Center Back Pleat: Here we are discussing about center vent operation, Jacket having center vent need to be follow the pleat making as shown in the picture. Curve and seam margin need to be adjusted as per design and pattern requirement. 

Body lining attachment with collar: Jacket lining layer always give comfort upon wearing. Selection of lining is also very important. Here we are discussing about the lining attachment to other parts. In below image we can see the instruction of lining attachment with fullness. These fullness given for loose fitting of lining comparing to body. We are seeing shape from out side but inside movement of body can get coved by lining access part only. When we are talking about lining then first know the pattern of lining will be bigger the body so it can freely adjust the movement of any body part. 

if fullness not given then when wearer stretch his hand or band his body might damage the seam or tear the fabric due to additional force involvement .

Sleeve lining attachment with man Fabric:  This operation done while making the sleeve. the margin difference in seam opening helps lining not visible out side. due to this reason lining is covered by body fabric and these things applied on every stage of body and lining attachment where looseness given for internal movement.

Hope these operation helps you to know about the detailing. In my working experience have found that peoples are doing any operation but they don't know why its done in this way.

I m trying to provide the basic concept where you can understand the operation and why those operation require so you can use other techniques as well if you know the reason behind the operation.

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