Technical sewing operations of formal blazer.

Technical Sewing Operations : Formal blazer made with two layers having canvas and felt in between to give formal body shape visualization to a jacket.

Formal category apparel need proper visual attractive look to impress customer. Raw material quality surely play an important role in terms of product feel as well its look.

To give proper visual attractive look as per body shape to a jacket, we will discuss here about some operation which reflects out side visual look of a jacket.

Bottom Seam in a double breasted Jacket: Below image indicating the seam margin difference in both front panel at bottom

As per image the deference in margin should be 0.5cm more in right side bottom compare to left. It helps to hide the stitch at cross point. 

Under collar felt attachment: When attaching collar felt on collar it should be overlapped 0.5 to 0.7cm on under collar band.

Over lapping felt helps to increase bulginess on collar folding point area. It improves the collar stand/drag in proper way to look perfect.

Side and Centre vent attachment: When making vent at back (Either center vent or side vent). the sewing angle of vent should be in 90*. It helps the vent folding look good upon turning out.

Shoulder Pad setting: Shoulder pad setting is the most important operation in terms of jacket making

In below drawing its indicated that the chest piece should get overlapped on shoulder pad. Both suppose to place in curve shape following the human body structure. Fall of chest going to be oval with this technique.

Sleeve Seam at top: Top sleeve seam must be opened at both front and back side, Front should be more comparing back approx. 1cm.

 

Sleeve seam opening helps to cover shoulder pad pick point, It gives clean look to sleeve fall from shoulder.

 

Chest Pocket Bag Reinforcement: While assembling the jacket after making body, lining and sleeve part,

There is some operation need to be done inside to avoid any technical issue. Here we are discussing about pocket bag fixation. You can able to see the pocket bag tucked with armhole and lapen to hold the bag so it could not change his actual shape while wearing.

If inside pocket bag tucked securely then its give clean look on front area or else if pocket bag moved inside then the folded bag impression will visualize upon wearing. 

Center Back Pleat: Here we are discussing about center vent operation, Jacket having center vent need to be follow the pleat making as shown in the picture. Curve and seam margin need to be adjusted as per design and pattern requirement. 

Body lining attachment with collar: Jacket lining layer always give comfort upon wearing. Selection of lining is also very important. Here we are discussing about the lining attachment to other parts. In below image we can see the instruction of lining attachment with fullness. These fullness given for loose fitting of lining comparing to body. We are seeing shape from out side but inside movement of body can get coved by lining access part only. When we are talking about lining then first know the pattern of lining will be bigger the body so it can freely adjust the movement of any body part. 

if fullness not given then when wearer stretch his hand or band his body might damage the seam or tear the fabric due to additional force involvement .

Sleeve lining attachment with man Fabric:  This operation done while making the sleeve. the margin difference in seam opening helps lining not visible out side. due to this reason lining is covered by body fabric and these things applied on every stage of body and lining attachment where looseness given for internal movement.

Hope these operation helps you to know about the detailing. In my working experience have found that peoples are doing any operation but they don't know why its done in this way.

I m trying to provide the basic concept where you can understand the operation and why those operation require so you can use other techniques as well if you know the reason behind the operation.

Follow me for more technical knowledge on jacket operation , material and cost analysis. 

Jacket production Process - Step by Step

Jacket Production: In the field of apparel, jacket or blazer production known as  most unique product due to its construction process/ cost factor/formal look as well for its special machine requirement while making it.

Jacket is a combination of outer and inner layer by having shape fixation material inside to get proper formal look 

In this article we will go through step wise process of Jacket production to know the advantage 

Step-1 , Pattern:

Mostly other garments req 2 to 3 set of pattern plotter as per raw material used in styling but jacket have deferent case as types of raw material used in jacket is maximum compare to any other apparel product.

For jacket making below list of pattern(plotter) req to cut the all raw material which utilize in 

blazer manufacturing.

Body Fabric Pattern.

contrast fabric pattern

body lining pattern 

contrast lining pattern

woven fusing pattern

non woven fusing pattern
Reinforcement fusing pattern

Body canvas pattern

yoke canvas pattern

Body felt pattern

Sleeve head pattern

collar felt pattern

Some other ready pattern also going to use as per style requirements to give  clean finish .

Step-2

After Pattern Finalization of all raw material, second step is to make plotter for bulk cutting.

Plotter finalization(lay Length)  depends upon size breakup against order qty so pattern sizes can be adjust as per size wise order qty in plotter.

Step -3 

Layering is the process which starts after plotter length finalization. All above given material have to be layered for cutting.

Jacket production process is complicated due to such lengthy process. Every material have to cut separately and they having there separate importance, any mistake anywhere result 

quality issue in final product.

No of layers depend upon order quantity break up as well thickness of material.

layering can be done manually or by auto layer machine.

Step -4

Cutting is the next step after layering of all raw material which used in blazer. Cutting process done manual as well with specialized auto cutter.

Step -5 

Panel numbering is the next process after cutting to control the shading issue within garments by using sticker along with lot no(Fabric roll wise/shade wise lot no.) on each panel.

Numbering system helps when the assembling process starts so each lot no can be assemble together.

Step-6 

Blazer manufacturing require fusing on several panel. Fusing of those panels done after stickering(Numbering)  because if fusing done before Stickering then the panel mismatch probability of garments will be higher as its done on assumption basis.

Step -7

Shorting is the process also called as bundling. Its done on the basis of fabric roll. On the time of layering all manufacturers follow one shade one bundle policies. It might be one fabric roll layer = one bundle. No of pcs in bundle depend upon fabric roll length. 

 

Step -8

Marking and line loading done when the bundling process get completed. Marking process having there own importance in blazer manufacturing. 

Marking done specially for dart as well for pocket placement. Marking should be done as per design requirement to achieve proper placement of any operation or part as per define measurement. 

Step-9 

Line Loading is the next process after marking on panels. 

Jacket line loading can be categories into 4 divisions as per line setting. Jacket have mostly 5 separate manufacturing divisions to complete one stitching. Below is the category wise manufacturing divisions.

a) Body Fabric sewing section: In this section all body fabric parts get stitched together by adding pockets, darts , shoulder pget added in this ad fixation as well any other specific requirement of design.

b) Lining sewing section: Lining is the inner layer of blazer having soft feel and its give comfort upon wearing. In this sewing section all lining parts get assembled to form the inner shape construction. Inside pocket and piping or other construction depends upon design requirement. 

c) Sleeve Sewing section: Jacket sleeve made by using outer layer of body fab and inner layer with lining material. Decorative buttons and keyhole on sleeve get added in this section.

d) Canvas Sewing section: To give proper formal shape to jacket its necessary to use Chest canvas , felt, yoke canvas and sleeve head canvas along with sleeve head felt. These all materials used in-between  both the layers(Body fab and lining) Attached with body fab with basting stitch. 

Before sewing these materials in product. Theses materials get assemble together as per there shape and materials( chest canvas sew along with yoke canvas and chest felt where as sleeve canvas stitched with sleeve head felt).

e) Assembly section: Once all parts sewing get completed(Body, lining , sleeve and canvas). These all parts get assembled in one sewing section which know as assembly section. 

 In this section Outer layer get stitched with lining layer and then sleeve get attached with these both in such way that stitch line should not be visible out side so all sewing operation done from inside only.

Lots of special sewing machine req to assemble a jacket. Shoulder pad attachment and  Button hole also made in this section only.

Step -10

After jacket sewing done, Finishing process get started, It includes - Thread Cutting, Pressing, Buttoning, Checking, tagging . 

* Stitched jacket have less thread to cut as there sewing operation done inside and most of thread got trimmed in stitching line only.

* For jacket Pressing there is lots of special pressing equipment require to give proper body shape to a jacket. for example  

Body pressing machine: This equipment have body shade to give same look to a jacket while pressing.

Like that every parts pressing machine is available in market to give proper shape to each part of jacket like- Lining pressing, Sleeve pressing, Lapel pressing , Sleeve neeping,  shoulder pressing etc.

* Buttoning done once pressing got completed  because if button get attached previous to press might leave shining on garment while pressing.

* Section wise checking is the process which got followed in sewing line. But final checking done after pressing to see the actual impact of shape and other aspects of the product.

* If there is any tag or label(Label on sleeve) which require to added in garment get done in finishing section.

* Step -11

Packing process is the last part of jacket or apparel manufacturing. In this section garment get embellished with price tag , any other decorative tag or lapel pin. After tagging its get hanged on brand hanger if any and then polybag put upon it as well suit cover get added if req. 

Now the jacket is ready to dispatch either by hanging mode or in carton packing mode. Hanging mode is recommendable for formal category.

Hope this article helps you in the way you were looking for it. 

 

Uses of canvas in Jacket production

Jacket Canvas:  Canvas is nothing but a type of fabric which having plain weave made out with cotton, Linen, synthetic and wool  yarns.

Canvas fabric is also known for being Durable, Heavy duty and sturdy. Canvas having water resistant or Water proof nature as per its yarn combination.

 When we are talking about the uses of canvas in jacket manufacturing, Firstly have to know where and why canvas require in jacket or suit manufacturing.

High quality product jacket manufacturer are using canvas on Mostly three parts in blazer or jacket as per jacket technicians requirement to give rich and fabulous look.

1. Chest Canvas: In Jacket manufacturing ,canvas can be used on chest part as per design and quality requirements. Mostly chest canvas can be categories into two parts in blazers(Half canvas and Full Canvas. 

Half canvas: Length of canvas inside jacket suppose to be shorter in length compare to front jacket length. Mostly half canvas size should be on around waist length. for fixation of canvas bridal tape should be used along with body net(Woven) fusing. Body net fused along with  body fabric parts in front panel of a blazer so canvas and woven fusing is holding body fabric to get a proper body shape as per pattern of a blazer. Felt is also req on front area over canvas to cover the harshness of canvas  and built the chest shape properly.

Full Canvas: Length of canvas will be as per front length  of a blazer. It covers all front panel area. Other all materials used as per half canvas jacket only. Full canvas used in blazer to give more formal look . Mostly full canvas jacket is getting designed for straight fit body shape.

2. Yoke Canvas: Canvas can be used on yoke parts in front panel. Technicians are suggesting to use yoke canvas because the human body shape having some unevenness comparing to shoulder and chest area. To full fill the proper shoulder drop, getting matched with chest fall, yoke canvas is playing important role by using it over chest canvas only on yoke area. Double layer of canvas on yoke area is covering the human body shape properly as per formal look requirement of designs.

Yoke canvas length get decided by pattern makers as per body measurements.

3. Shoulder canvas: Canvas is also require on shoulder area of a jacket. Specially canvas require on sleeve attachment areas as jacket sleeve fall is always being straight. While sleeve getting attached with jacket body, It gives straight fall look because canvas is holding both shoulder and sleeve together.

Some times shoulder pad is also having canvas on its upper area but the quality of canvas suppose to be thinner and smother compare to other two canvas.

Horse hair canvas is most popular in jacket manufacturing due to its nature. It enhance the look of blazer shape because its bounciness nature. Cost of horse hair canvas is high so these days manufacturers believe in synthetic canvas uses as synthetic canvases are look like similar to horse hair canvas and its behave also like horse hair canvas as per quality. economically synthetic canvas is preferred by most of manufacturers these days.