Technical sewing operations of formal blazer.

Technical Sewing Operations : Formal blazer made with two layers having canvas and felt in between to give formal body shape visualization to a jacket.

Formal category apparel need proper visual attractive look to impress customer. Raw material quality surely play an important role in terms of product feel as well its look.

To give proper visual attractive look as per body shape to a jacket, we will discuss here about some operation which reflects out side visual look of a jacket.

Bottom Seam in a double breasted Jacket: Below image indicating the seam margin difference in both front panel at bottom

As per image the deference in margin should be 0.5cm more in right side bottom compare to left. It helps to hide the stitch at cross point. 

Under collar felt attachment: When attaching collar felt on collar it should be overlapped 0.5 to 0.7cm on under collar band.

Over lapping felt helps to increase bulginess on collar folding point area. It improves the collar stand/drag in proper way to look perfect.

Side and Centre vent attachment: When making vent at back (Either center vent or side vent). the sewing angle of vent should be in 90*. It helps the vent folding look good upon turning out.

Shoulder Pad setting: Shoulder pad setting is the most important operation in terms of jacket making

In below drawing its indicated that the chest piece should get overlapped on shoulder pad. Both suppose to place in curve shape following the human body structure. Fall of chest going to be oval with this technique.

Sleeve Seam at top: Top sleeve seam must be opened at both front and back side, Front should be more comparing back approx. 1cm.

 

Sleeve seam opening helps to cover shoulder pad pick point, It gives clean look to sleeve fall from shoulder.

 

Chest Pocket Bag Reinforcement: While assembling the jacket after making body, lining and sleeve part,

There is some operation need to be done inside to avoid any technical issue. Here we are discussing about pocket bag fixation. You can able to see the pocket bag tucked with armhole and lapen to hold the bag so it could not change his actual shape while wearing.

If inside pocket bag tucked securely then its give clean look on front area or else if pocket bag moved inside then the folded bag impression will visualize upon wearing. 

Center Back Pleat: Here we are discussing about center vent operation, Jacket having center vent need to be follow the pleat making as shown in the picture. Curve and seam margin need to be adjusted as per design and pattern requirement. 

Body lining attachment with collar: Jacket lining layer always give comfort upon wearing. Selection of lining is also very important. Here we are discussing about the lining attachment to other parts. In below image we can see the instruction of lining attachment with fullness. These fullness given for loose fitting of lining comparing to body. We are seeing shape from out side but inside movement of body can get coved by lining access part only. When we are talking about lining then first know the pattern of lining will be bigger the body so it can freely adjust the movement of any body part. 

if fullness not given then when wearer stretch his hand or band his body might damage the seam or tear the fabric due to additional force involvement .

Sleeve lining attachment with man Fabric:  This operation done while making the sleeve. the margin difference in seam opening helps lining not visible out side. due to this reason lining is covered by body fabric and these things applied on every stage of body and lining attachment where looseness given for internal movement.

Hope these operation helps you to know about the detailing. In my working experience have found that peoples are doing any operation but they don't know why its done in this way.

I m trying to provide the basic concept where you can understand the operation and why those operation require so you can use other techniques as well if you know the reason behind the operation.

Follow me for more technical knowledge on jacket operation , material and cost analysis. 

Jacket production Process - Step by Step

Jacket Production: In the field of apparel, jacket or blazer production known as  most unique product due to its construction process/ cost factor/formal look as well for its special machine requirement while making it.

Jacket is a combination of outer and inner layer by having shape fixation material inside to get proper formal look 

In this article we will go through step wise process of Jacket production to know the advantage 

Step-1 , Pattern:

Mostly other garments req 2 to 3 set of pattern plotter as per raw material used in styling but jacket have deferent case as types of raw material used in jacket is maximum compare to any other apparel product.

For jacket making below list of pattern(plotter) req to cut the all raw material which utilize in 

blazer manufacturing.

Body Fabric Pattern.

contrast fabric pattern

body lining pattern 

contrast lining pattern

woven fusing pattern

non woven fusing pattern
Reinforcement fusing pattern

Body canvas pattern

yoke canvas pattern

Body felt pattern

Sleeve head pattern

collar felt pattern

Some other ready pattern also going to use as per style requirements to give  clean finish .

Step-2

After Pattern Finalization of all raw material, second step is to make plotter for bulk cutting.

Plotter finalization(lay Length)  depends upon size breakup against order qty so pattern sizes can be adjust as per size wise order qty in plotter.

Step -3 

Layering is the process which starts after plotter length finalization. All above given material have to be layered for cutting.

Jacket production process is complicated due to such lengthy process. Every material have to cut separately and they having there separate importance, any mistake anywhere result 

quality issue in final product.

No of layers depend upon order quantity break up as well thickness of material.

layering can be done manually or by auto layer machine.

Step -4

Cutting is the next step after layering of all raw material which used in blazer. Cutting process done manual as well with specialized auto cutter.

Step -5 

Panel numbering is the next process after cutting to control the shading issue within garments by using sticker along with lot no(Fabric roll wise/shade wise lot no.) on each panel.

Numbering system helps when the assembling process starts so each lot no can be assemble together.

Step-6 

Blazer manufacturing require fusing on several panel. Fusing of those panels done after stickering(Numbering)  because if fusing done before Stickering then the panel mismatch probability of garments will be higher as its done on assumption basis.

Step -7

Shorting is the process also called as bundling. Its done on the basis of fabric roll. On the time of layering all manufacturers follow one shade one bundle policies. It might be one fabric roll layer = one bundle. No of pcs in bundle depend upon fabric roll length. 

 

Step -8

Marking and line loading done when the bundling process get completed. Marking process having there own importance in blazer manufacturing. 

Marking done specially for dart as well for pocket placement. Marking should be done as per design requirement to achieve proper placement of any operation or part as per define measurement. 

Step-9 

Line Loading is the next process after marking on panels. 

Jacket line loading can be categories into 4 divisions as per line setting. Jacket have mostly 5 separate manufacturing divisions to complete one stitching. Below is the category wise manufacturing divisions.

a) Body Fabric sewing section: In this section all body fabric parts get stitched together by adding pockets, darts , shoulder pget added in this ad fixation as well any other specific requirement of design.

b) Lining sewing section: Lining is the inner layer of blazer having soft feel and its give comfort upon wearing. In this sewing section all lining parts get assembled to form the inner shape construction. Inside pocket and piping or other construction depends upon design requirement. 

c) Sleeve Sewing section: Jacket sleeve made by using outer layer of body fab and inner layer with lining material. Decorative buttons and keyhole on sleeve get added in this section.

d) Canvas Sewing section: To give proper formal shape to jacket its necessary to use Chest canvas , felt, yoke canvas and sleeve head canvas along with sleeve head felt. These all materials used in-between  both the layers(Body fab and lining) Attached with body fab with basting stitch. 

Before sewing these materials in product. Theses materials get assemble together as per there shape and materials( chest canvas sew along with yoke canvas and chest felt where as sleeve canvas stitched with sleeve head felt).

e) Assembly section: Once all parts sewing get completed(Body, lining , sleeve and canvas). These all parts get assembled in one sewing section which know as assembly section. 

 In this section Outer layer get stitched with lining layer and then sleeve get attached with these both in such way that stitch line should not be visible out side so all sewing operation done from inside only.

Lots of special sewing machine req to assemble a jacket. Shoulder pad attachment and  Button hole also made in this section only.

Step -10

After jacket sewing done, Finishing process get started, It includes - Thread Cutting, Pressing, Buttoning, Checking, tagging . 

* Stitched jacket have less thread to cut as there sewing operation done inside and most of thread got trimmed in stitching line only.

* For jacket Pressing there is lots of special pressing equipment require to give proper body shape to a jacket. for example  

Body pressing machine: This equipment have body shade to give same look to a jacket while pressing.

Like that every parts pressing machine is available in market to give proper shape to each part of jacket like- Lining pressing, Sleeve pressing, Lapel pressing , Sleeve neeping,  shoulder pressing etc.

* Buttoning done once pressing got completed  because if button get attached previous to press might leave shining on garment while pressing.

* Section wise checking is the process which got followed in sewing line. But final checking done after pressing to see the actual impact of shape and other aspects of the product.

* If there is any tag or label(Label on sleeve) which require to added in garment get done in finishing section.

* Step -11

Packing process is the last part of jacket or apparel manufacturing. In this section garment get embellished with price tag , any other decorative tag or lapel pin. After tagging its get hanged on brand hanger if any and then polybag put upon it as well suit cover get added if req. 

Now the jacket is ready to dispatch either by hanging mode or in carton packing mode. Hanging mode is recommendable for formal category.

Hope this article helps you in the way you were looking for it. 

 

Jacket/Blazer manufacturing machine requirement

Jacket/ Blazer Manufacturing: Jacket or blazer making in garment industry is still a challenging job due to its technical requirement as well the special machines requirement.
There are countable number of manufacturer available for making blazer / suits in textile hub countries due to its high grade special  machine requirement and due to the cost of establishing the manufacturing plant is high.

Here we go through the types of machine requirement which is commonly used for a Jacket or Blazer manufacturing unit.

1. Single needle lock stitch machine:- This is the basic common machine requirement for all garment industries including Blazer/ Suit manufacturing unit. For set up of blazer/ Jacket manufacturing line this machine is the first requirement.

2. Welting Machine: There are 3-4 Welt pocket is commonly used in a blazer or Jacket In some design its more. Special automatic welting machine requirement is there for making bone pockets either its single bone Pkt or Double Bone pkt with Flap. If these pockets will be made manually then it will cost high as well require 6-7 time more man power. Average capacity of making Pkt per day with this machine is approx- 1200-1400 Pcs in a day.

3. Zigzag industrial stitching Machine:- This machine is used for Zigzag stitch on Chest pkt as well for collar felt attachment which is commonly used in this industries. This machine requirement will be on body and lining section.

4. Blind Hem stitch machine:- This machine used for blind hem inside the jacket for attaching chest piece as well used on other place if requirement is there. Machine requirement will be as per line capacity set up .

5. Flap Making automatic Machine:-These days this machine is in trend for this industries as it saves time for making flap automatically with help of jig profile as per shape requirement. Flap is basic requirement for both front pkt of a blazer.

6. Arm hole tape attach Machine:- This machine used to attach tape on armhole area for giving fullness as per sleeve adjustment. To run this machine operators need to be educated about the fullness requirement of product so they can control the machine as per product guideline.

7. Run Stitch with Edge cutter Machine:- This machine used for attachment of lining with body panel. Specially helps to give proper fullness at hem area. Operators need to be get proper guideline to use this machine as per product requirement. Number of machine requirement as per line capacity set up.

8. Tacking machine:- This machine used for tacking edge of facing and bottom edge of collar to break the lapel as per shape. No of machine require as per line capacity set up.

9. Sleeve Attaching machine:- Sleeve part made in separate section as well body and lining made separate for jackets. after body and lining assemble sleeve need to be attach through this special machine. Number of machine require as per line capacity set up.

10. Sleeve lining attach to armhole along with shoulder pad:- This machine helps to attach sleeve lining parts along with shoulder pad to armhole with control on stitch requirement as per shape of armhole. No of machine require as per line capacity set up.

11. Key hole Machine:- Most of all blazer require same hole on sleeve and keyhole on front part as well on lapel. minimum two machine require for one line set up( One in sleeve section and another one in assembly section).

12. Button attach machine:- Mostly jacket having two size of button requirement(24L&32L). 24 l buttons used on sleeve same hole and inside lining pkt where as 32L button used on front part. Minimum two machine require for line set up( One in sleeve section and another in Finishing section).

13. Bar tack Machine:- Bar tack used on jackets pkt mostly on inside pkts. This machine also helps in vent tuck cross stitch after changing the frame. No of machine requirement as per line capacity set up.

14. Flat steam iron Table:- Pressing tables require in jacket manufacturing on various operation. Manufacturing unit decides to use no of flat steam iron table as per there line capacity set up.

15. Shoulder pad fixing pressing machine:- This machine helps to fix the shoulder pad on body with pressing. This machine require on body stitching section. One machine is req for one line set up.

16. Front Pressing Programming machine: Jacket finishing req types of Buck pressing machine and flat pressing machine for jacket pressing.Manufacturing units are using pressing machine as per there requirement. Different types of machine req part wise pressing.
Here we go step wise pressing machine requirement.
For first step pressing(Front pressing) below pressing machine req to press the front panel of jacket to give the proper front shape of jacket.

17.Back and side Pressing Machine:- Buck machine should have the shape as per back and side to press the back and side jacket as per there shape.

18. Lapel pressing Machine: Lapel is the main attractive part of jacket and for giving its proper shape there is a need of lapel shape buck machine. Below machine helps to give the shape.

19. Shoulder and armhole pressing machine:- This type of steam pressing req to press the shoulder and arm hole area of a jacket.This machine designed as per shape of armhole and sleeve to give proper  shape.

20. Sleeve Pressing machine:- Jacket sleeve is having there specific shape. Sleeve shape Buck req to press these area. This machine helps to give the proper shape of Sleeve.

21. Sleeve Nipping Machine:- After sleeve pressing there are some touch up req on armhole area to give the clean finish look. This small buck machine helps to clean sleeve top part.

22. Lining Pressing Machine:- To give clean inside finish of a jacket, Lining pressing machine req. This machine helps to press lining.

23. Small part or repressing Machine:- Some small buck steam pressing machine req to give clean finish everywhere in jacket. This machines used to press the all those parts which was not covered by advance automatic pressing machine listed above.

24. Final Touch up pressing machine:- While pressing the jacket through automates machine - some wrinkles might occur on some parts which is getting cleared manually through this machine.

Some more machines can be used by manufacturer as per there convenience as jacket operations handled by highly technical persons and operation can deffer from one to other experts as all experts having there own concept of making jackets.