Technical sewing operations of formal blazer.

Technical Sewing Operations : Formal blazer made with two layers having canvas and felt in between to give formal body shape visualization to a jacket.

Formal category apparel need proper visual attractive look to impress customer. Raw material quality surely play an important role in terms of product feel as well its look.

To give proper visual attractive look as per body shape to a jacket, we will discuss here about some operation which reflects out side visual look of a jacket.

Bottom Seam in a double breasted Jacket: Below image indicating the seam margin difference in both front panel at bottom

As per image the deference in margin should be 0.5cm more in right side bottom compare to left. It helps to hide the stitch at cross point. 

Under collar felt attachment: When attaching collar felt on collar it should be overlapped 0.5 to 0.7cm on under collar band.

Over lapping felt helps to increase bulginess on collar folding point area. It improves the collar stand/drag in proper way to look perfect.

Side and Centre vent attachment: When making vent at back (Either center vent or side vent). the sewing angle of vent should be in 90*. It helps the vent folding look good upon turning out.

Shoulder Pad setting: Shoulder pad setting is the most important operation in terms of jacket making

In below drawing its indicated that the chest piece should get overlapped on shoulder pad. Both suppose to place in curve shape following the human body structure. Fall of chest going to be oval with this technique.

Sleeve Seam at top: Top sleeve seam must be opened at both front and back side, Front should be more comparing back approx. 1cm.

 

Sleeve seam opening helps to cover shoulder pad pick point, It gives clean look to sleeve fall from shoulder.

 

Chest Pocket Bag Reinforcement: While assembling the jacket after making body, lining and sleeve part,

There is some operation need to be done inside to avoid any technical issue. Here we are discussing about pocket bag fixation. You can able to see the pocket bag tucked with armhole and lapen to hold the bag so it could not change his actual shape while wearing.

If inside pocket bag tucked securely then its give clean look on front area or else if pocket bag moved inside then the folded bag impression will visualize upon wearing. 

Center Back Pleat: Here we are discussing about center vent operation, Jacket having center vent need to be follow the pleat making as shown in the picture. Curve and seam margin need to be adjusted as per design and pattern requirement. 

Body lining attachment with collar: Jacket lining layer always give comfort upon wearing. Selection of lining is also very important. Here we are discussing about the lining attachment to other parts. In below image we can see the instruction of lining attachment with fullness. These fullness given for loose fitting of lining comparing to body. We are seeing shape from out side but inside movement of body can get coved by lining access part only. When we are talking about lining then first know the pattern of lining will be bigger the body so it can freely adjust the movement of any body part. 

if fullness not given then when wearer stretch his hand or band his body might damage the seam or tear the fabric due to additional force involvement .

Sleeve lining attachment with man Fabric:  This operation done while making the sleeve. the margin difference in seam opening helps lining not visible out side. due to this reason lining is covered by body fabric and these things applied on every stage of body and lining attachment where looseness given for internal movement.

Hope these operation helps you to know about the detailing. In my working experience have found that peoples are doing any operation but they don't know why its done in this way.

I m trying to provide the basic concept where you can understand the operation and why those operation require so you can use other techniques as well if you know the reason behind the operation.

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