Jacket production Process - Step by Step

Jacket Production: In the field of apparel, jacket or blazer production known as  most unique product due to its construction process/ cost factor/formal look as well for its special machine requirement while making it.

Jacket is a combination of outer and inner layer by having shape fixation material inside to get proper formal look 

In this article we will go through step wise process of Jacket production to know the advantage 

Step-1 , Pattern:

Mostly other garments req 2 to 3 set of pattern plotter as per raw material used in styling but jacket have deferent case as types of raw material used in jacket is maximum compare to any other apparel product.

For jacket making below list of pattern(plotter) req to cut the all raw material which utilize in 

blazer manufacturing.

Body Fabric Pattern.

contrast fabric pattern

body lining pattern 

contrast lining pattern

woven fusing pattern

non woven fusing pattern
Reinforcement fusing pattern

Body canvas pattern

yoke canvas pattern

Body felt pattern

Sleeve head pattern

collar felt pattern

Some other ready pattern also going to use as per style requirements to give  clean finish .

Step-2

After Pattern Finalization of all raw material, second step is to make plotter for bulk cutting.

Plotter finalization(lay Length)  depends upon size breakup against order qty so pattern sizes can be adjust as per size wise order qty in plotter.

Step -3 

Layering is the process which starts after plotter length finalization. All above given material have to be layered for cutting.

Jacket production process is complicated due to such lengthy process. Every material have to cut separately and they having there separate importance, any mistake anywhere result 

quality issue in final product.

No of layers depend upon order quantity break up as well thickness of material.

layering can be done manually or by auto layer machine.

Step -4

Cutting is the next step after layering of all raw material which used in blazer. Cutting process done manual as well with specialized auto cutter.

Step -5 

Panel numbering is the next process after cutting to control the shading issue within garments by using sticker along with lot no(Fabric roll wise/shade wise lot no.) on each panel.

Numbering system helps when the assembling process starts so each lot no can be assemble together.

Step-6 

Blazer manufacturing require fusing on several panel. Fusing of those panels done after stickering(Numbering)  because if fusing done before Stickering then the panel mismatch probability of garments will be higher as its done on assumption basis.

Step -7

Shorting is the process also called as bundling. Its done on the basis of fabric roll. On the time of layering all manufacturers follow one shade one bundle policies. It might be one fabric roll layer = one bundle. No of pcs in bundle depend upon fabric roll length. 

 

Step -8

Marking and line loading done when the bundling process get completed. Marking process having there own importance in blazer manufacturing. 

Marking done specially for dart as well for pocket placement. Marking should be done as per design requirement to achieve proper placement of any operation or part as per define measurement. 

Step-9 

Line Loading is the next process after marking on panels. 

Jacket line loading can be categories into 4 divisions as per line setting. Jacket have mostly 5 separate manufacturing divisions to complete one stitching. Below is the category wise manufacturing divisions.

a) Body Fabric sewing section: In this section all body fabric parts get stitched together by adding pockets, darts , shoulder pget added in this ad fixation as well any other specific requirement of design.

b) Lining sewing section: Lining is the inner layer of blazer having soft feel and its give comfort upon wearing. In this sewing section all lining parts get assembled to form the inner shape construction. Inside pocket and piping or other construction depends upon design requirement. 

c) Sleeve Sewing section: Jacket sleeve made by using outer layer of body fab and inner layer with lining material. Decorative buttons and keyhole on sleeve get added in this section.

d) Canvas Sewing section: To give proper formal shape to jacket its necessary to use Chest canvas , felt, yoke canvas and sleeve head canvas along with sleeve head felt. These all materials used in-between  both the layers(Body fab and lining) Attached with body fab with basting stitch. 

Before sewing these materials in product. Theses materials get assemble together as per there shape and materials( chest canvas sew along with yoke canvas and chest felt where as sleeve canvas stitched with sleeve head felt).

e) Assembly section: Once all parts sewing get completed(Body, lining , sleeve and canvas). These all parts get assembled in one sewing section which know as assembly section. 

 In this section Outer layer get stitched with lining layer and then sleeve get attached with these both in such way that stitch line should not be visible out side so all sewing operation done from inside only.

Lots of special sewing machine req to assemble a jacket. Shoulder pad attachment and  Button hole also made in this section only.

Step -10

After jacket sewing done, Finishing process get started, It includes - Thread Cutting, Pressing, Buttoning, Checking, tagging . 

* Stitched jacket have less thread to cut as there sewing operation done inside and most of thread got trimmed in stitching line only.

* For jacket Pressing there is lots of special pressing equipment require to give proper body shape to a jacket. for example  

Body pressing machine: This equipment have body shade to give same look to a jacket while pressing.

Like that every parts pressing machine is available in market to give proper shape to each part of jacket like- Lining pressing, Sleeve pressing, Lapel pressing , Sleeve neeping,  shoulder pressing etc.

* Buttoning done once pressing got completed  because if button get attached previous to press might leave shining on garment while pressing.

* Section wise checking is the process which got followed in sewing line. But final checking done after pressing to see the actual impact of shape and other aspects of the product.

* If there is any tag or label(Label on sleeve) which require to added in garment get done in finishing section.

* Step -11

Packing process is the last part of jacket or apparel manufacturing. In this section garment get embellished with price tag , any other decorative tag or lapel pin. After tagging its get hanged on brand hanger if any and then polybag put upon it as well suit cover get added if req. 

Now the jacket is ready to dispatch either by hanging mode or in carton packing mode. Hanging mode is recommendable for formal category.

Hope this article helps you in the way you were looking for it. 

 

Uses of canvas in Jacket production

Jacket Canvas:  Canvas is nothing but a type of fabric which having plain weave made out with cotton, Linen, synthetic and wool  yarns.

Canvas fabric is also known for being Durable, Heavy duty and sturdy. Canvas having water resistant or Water proof nature as per its yarn combination.

 When we are talking about the uses of canvas in jacket manufacturing, Firstly have to know where and why canvas require in jacket or suit manufacturing.

High quality product jacket manufacturer are using canvas on Mostly three parts in blazer or jacket as per jacket technicians requirement to give rich and fabulous look.

1. Chest Canvas: In Jacket manufacturing ,canvas can be used on chest part as per design and quality requirements. Mostly chest canvas can be categories into two parts in blazers(Half canvas and Full Canvas. 

Half canvas: Length of canvas inside jacket suppose to be shorter in length compare to front jacket length. Mostly half canvas size should be on around waist length. for fixation of canvas bridal tape should be used along with body net(Woven) fusing. Body net fused along with  body fabric parts in front panel of a blazer so canvas and woven fusing is holding body fabric to get a proper body shape as per pattern of a blazer. Felt is also req on front area over canvas to cover the harshness of canvas  and built the chest shape properly.

Full Canvas: Length of canvas will be as per front length  of a blazer. It covers all front panel area. Other all materials used as per half canvas jacket only. Full canvas used in blazer to give more formal look . Mostly full canvas jacket is getting designed for straight fit body shape.

2. Yoke Canvas: Canvas can be used on yoke parts in front panel. Technicians are suggesting to use yoke canvas because the human body shape having some unevenness comparing to shoulder and chest area. To full fill the proper shoulder drop, getting matched with chest fall, yoke canvas is playing important role by using it over chest canvas only on yoke area. Double layer of canvas on yoke area is covering the human body shape properly as per formal look requirement of designs.

Yoke canvas length get decided by pattern makers as per body measurements.

3. Shoulder canvas: Canvas is also require on shoulder area of a jacket. Specially canvas require on sleeve attachment areas as jacket sleeve fall is always being straight. While sleeve getting attached with jacket body, It gives straight fall look because canvas is holding both shoulder and sleeve together.

Some times shoulder pad is also having canvas on its upper area but the quality of canvas suppose to be thinner and smother compare to other two canvas.

Horse hair canvas is most popular in jacket manufacturing due to its nature. It enhance the look of blazer shape because its bounciness nature. Cost of horse hair canvas is high so these days manufacturers believe in synthetic canvas uses as synthetic canvases are look like similar to horse hair canvas and its behave also like horse hair canvas as per quality. economically synthetic canvas is preferred by most of manufacturers these days.