Jacket BOM(Bill Of Materials) for production

JACKET OR BLAZER BILL OF MATERIAL: Jacket bill of material suppose to be the list of raw materials used in jacket manufacturing with there category, description, require quantity and other sourcing aspect details which helps merchandiser to track there orders and get all required raw materials  on time before production start date.

A bill Of material suppose to be centralized source of information containing complete list of items(raw material) used to manufacture a jacket.

A format require to gather information about all raw materials to make a proper BOM.

See below stander format of a jacket BOM. Format can be extended as per information availability. 

How to make BOM for jacket:

Step- 1  Order information is the first requirement while making Jacket BOM which suppose to be displayed on top of the format. Order information include all below data about the jacket order.

*Item, Buyer and style information

*Fit of blazer and season information.

*Order qty along with size break up detail.

*Order receiving date and dispatch date information.

*Production start date

*Merchant Name, Approval By, Etc

Step-2 After order information entry, product information require to display in BOM. It includes complete information about raw materials starting with item description to procurement status. See below the list of information req to make a stander BOM.

* Raw material Category

* Material description, color and size of material.

* Material Consumption and unit of measure.

* Material require, stock availability.

* Ordering quantity, supplier, material ETD and ETA.

* Remarks, status and other crucial information if any.

Step-3 The crucial part of BOM of jacket or any other product starts from the third step of entry where need to make list of raw material and then have to get there final consumption as per product styles and there pattern. 

Each and every material which require to make a product till there packing stage starts from fabric or yarn need to have in this list so there not any interruption come on the time of production.

BOM raw material consumption should be accurate so no shortage or access will occur on or after production(Some common items is the exception in this criteria as they ordered in bulk and utilized in most of products like Inner trims, cello tape, lock pins, etc).

Extra consumption need to be finalize for each particular material as per there behaving nature or as per there wastage calculation. Order qty plays most important role while selecting extra percentage of material.

Material Description need to be very clear in this list so item which got purchased by others also should be as per requirement or else it results to be wrong purchasing which convert into production loss due to actual material unavailability.

While making a BOM of any product, Merchants should have to be very care full while making entry of product description , there consumption, unit of measure, extra consumption, stock availability and others.

As a Merchant while you are studying product for there raw material uses, your concentration label should be as per garment technician who check each part of product from outer side as well inner side and then product specification who made at by a merchant, to see where and what type of construction is there and what materials require to make the product. It helps to understand the consumption of materials and total no of material require.

Consumption finalization can be done by taking help of cad dept/IE dept also by self evaluation of product.  

  

Jacket or blazer material list can be categories in three divisions as per there requirement.

a* Cutting

b* Sewing

c* Finishing and packing  

Cutting BOM of jacket/blazer : In this list all material should be interred as per cutting section need.

Jacket or blazer cutting BOM list suppose to contain the below list.

This list got prepared as per standard jacket construction. This list might get change if the style and pattern of jacket will be deferent.  item description need to be selected as per raw material purchasing source availability. Name of article also get change per supplier code so it can traceable from supplier as well from our end to avoid wrong purchasing.

Before releasing BOM for purchasing, all materials should have customer approval or self approval as per end customer requirement.

Sewing BOM of Jacket/Blazer:- Sewing requirement list of blazer should be in this list. Here one thing need to be focused that size wise materials requirement suppose to be as per order size break up.

Go through below stander blazer sewing requirement list.

Same material change equation apply which have gone through cutting BOM list of a blazer.

Finishing/Packing BOM of Jacket/Blazer: After sewing jacket or blazer got moved to finishing and packing section which might be combined or separate sections.

Finishing of blazer is nothing but pressing and tucking, after that blazer moved to packing section where the below list of material req to pack the product. 

Material change equation same as per cutting and sewing. Most of time blazer shipped in hanging mode where the list of packing get change as there no requirement of cartons and there sticker but the new requirement arrived as per container construction requirement.

Hope this article will help you to make or understand the BOM of blazer or other products.

Uses of canvas in Jacket production

Jacket Canvas:  Canvas is nothing but a type of fabric which having plain weave made out with cotton, Linen, synthetic and wool  yarns.

Canvas fabric is also known for being Durable, Heavy duty and sturdy. Canvas having water resistant or Water proof nature as per its yarn combination.

 When we are talking about the uses of canvas in jacket manufacturing, Firstly have to know where and why canvas require in jacket or suit manufacturing.

High quality product jacket manufacturer are using canvas on Mostly three parts in blazer or jacket as per jacket technicians requirement to give rich and fabulous look.

1. Chest Canvas: In Jacket manufacturing ,canvas can be used on chest part as per design and quality requirements. Mostly chest canvas can be categories into two parts in blazers(Half canvas and Full Canvas. 

Half canvas: Length of canvas inside jacket suppose to be shorter in length compare to front jacket length. Mostly half canvas size should be on around waist length. for fixation of canvas bridal tape should be used along with body net(Woven) fusing. Body net fused along with  body fabric parts in front panel of a blazer so canvas and woven fusing is holding body fabric to get a proper body shape as per pattern of a blazer. Felt is also req on front area over canvas to cover the harshness of canvas  and built the chest shape properly.

Full Canvas: Length of canvas will be as per front length  of a blazer. It covers all front panel area. Other all materials used as per half canvas jacket only. Full canvas used in blazer to give more formal look . Mostly full canvas jacket is getting designed for straight fit body shape.

2. Yoke Canvas: Canvas can be used on yoke parts in front panel. Technicians are suggesting to use yoke canvas because the human body shape having some unevenness comparing to shoulder and chest area. To full fill the proper shoulder drop, getting matched with chest fall, yoke canvas is playing important role by using it over chest canvas only on yoke area. Double layer of canvas on yoke area is covering the human body shape properly as per formal look requirement of designs.

Yoke canvas length get decided by pattern makers as per body measurements.

3. Shoulder canvas: Canvas is also require on shoulder area of a jacket. Specially canvas require on sleeve attachment areas as jacket sleeve fall is always being straight. While sleeve getting attached with jacket body, It gives straight fall look because canvas is holding both shoulder and sleeve together.

Some times shoulder pad is also having canvas on its upper area but the quality of canvas suppose to be thinner and smother compare to other two canvas.

Horse hair canvas is most popular in jacket manufacturing due to its nature. It enhance the look of blazer shape because its bounciness nature. Cost of horse hair canvas is high so these days manufacturers believe in synthetic canvas uses as synthetic canvases are look like similar to horse hair canvas and its behave also like horse hair canvas as per quality. economically synthetic canvas is preferred by most of manufacturers these days.

Jacket or Suit Fusing Guidelines

Jacket Or Suit Fusing: 

When we are talking about jacket manufacturing then we have to go through internal material requirement of a jacket where fusing plays a significant role. Good quality jackets or suit need to be fused on several parts while its get sewn to give good drape upon wearing. In this blog you will find out why fusing require on several parts of jacket or suit and how we can use interlinings to make a quality product.

Here we go Through part wise fusing guidelines of a quality product jacket or suit:-

Front Panel fusing: Three types of fusing commonly used to make a jacket or suit. After detailing of all these three fusing will see where have to use these fusing in front panel and side panel as well on sleeve.

1. Woven fusing:- Also known as Body net fusing. Mostly used on front panel of jacket. For Jacket and suits polyester woven fusing is preferred to use with GSM Varies  between  40 to 90 as per fabric material and there thickness. Below are the benefits of woven fusing on garments.

* It helps to give curve and shape to garments.

* Enhance wrinkle resistance and elasticity of clothes.

* It Improves garment drape and enhance the stereo feeling.

* Prevents garment distortion and ensure to achieve an anticipative  design effect.

* Enhance the sense of thick, rich and warmness of clothes.

* It improves sewing efficiency and so on.

Note: Body net fusing color selection should be as per shell fabric. If fabric is lighter color then fusing color should be lighter or else darker color fusing will visible out side. Same applied for darker shell fabric also - if shell fabric is darker color then the fusing color selection should be also dark color only.

2. Non woven fusing: Also known as micro dot fusing. Uses of micro dot fusing on parts depends upon fabric quality and garments design. 100% polyester material prefer for making jacket and suits. GSM of the fusing varies between 15 to 50 as per fabric quality. See below specifications of micro dot fusing on garments.

* Enhance shrink resistance of shell fabric.

* Increase tear capability of shell fabric.

* It gives soft feel to fabric.

Note: Fusing color selection should be as per shell fabric color. Lighter color fusing for light color shell and dark color fusing for darker color shell fabric.

3. Reinforcement Fusing:- Also Non as NR Fusing. 100% Polyester material with  thread inside which helps to control fabric stretch-ability to give proper shape to the garment without any shape distortion.

Uses of These three fusing on front panel and side panel of jacket or suit:

Look at the below picture of fussed front panel of jacket with these above all three fusing. Will go through the detailing of uses after seeing the image.

 * Darker area indicates uses of woven fusing. Its mostly used on front part to give harder oval look  to jacket which is the first requirement of it.

* Non woven fusing used on shoulder area after using woven fusing as shoulder shape need to be more stuff while making jacket or suits. Its also used on other parts like side and arm hole separately to give shapes on those area's.

* On the above image we can able to see that NR fusing mostly got used on side seam area's as well on corner's to hold the fabric drop if upon stitching even the if the fabric wait is more.

Note:- Canvas is also playing master roll in jacket or suit manufacturing. Will go through canvas detailing in my next blog.