Technical details of blazer manufacturing(Technician concept): When we are talking about technical aspects of blazer manufacturing then first thing getting in our mind is, how the blazer manufactured ? . I have written some article on production process as well.
In this article will go through some blazer manufacturing operations which play critical role towards the quality product manufacturing which is basically used for high fashion blazer manufacturing.
The first thing noticed by any brand or buyer in jacket manufacturing unit is about there techniques of making critical or important sewing/ pressing operations.
Every brand , buyer as well manufacturing unit have there own technician to get there product as desired.
With my working experience in this field i can say that every technician have there own thoughts about jacket manufacturing process and it's quality control.
In apparel industry blazer technicians are known as the pillar of organization. They represent organizational quality standard of there product.
Now might our mind raise question - Why that much technicality req to make a jacket?
Is it necessary ?
Name of operation there techniques play important role?
Q. Why that much technicality req to make a jacket or blazer?
Ans. Jacket or blazer is representing human body shape. To give a proper shape in sewing, there are lots of operation need to be done to get desired shape. In simple word - If you have to give shape to fabric then you need to use some other material so it can hold fabric as per req shape. Not only material , way and place of using them is also play an important role. Finding the way and place known as techniques. As better anyone can understand these base can be a great technician in this field.
Q. Is it necessary ?
Ans: Yes, because giving a body structure to a fabric in such way can't be possible without using techniques.
Q. Name of operation there techniques play important role?
Ans: this is the point about this article is for ..
Will go through some critical operation which play an important role towards visualization as well proper shape fall as per req.
Operations:
Chest piece preparation: Chest piece is a combination of chest canvas , yoke canvas and felt which got assemble with the help of bridal tape.
Chest piece used in blazer to give proper breast shape as per human body to a fabric. It can be half length till upper waist or full length till lower waist as per design requirement.
In this image we can able to see that how many materials and darts were used to give shape like a man chest.
You can see instruction for making wrinkles in canvas with the help of hard tape. This technique used for lapel turn up. Lapel turning point is start from canvas end where tape used to hold it with fabric through sew. When lapel turn as per chest and waist shape, it req some inner space to get proper oval shape. Wrinkle help to achieve it.
Wrinkle measurement depends upon technician thought and pattern shape as well.
This chest piece made with the combination of- chest canvas, yoke canvas and chest felt. canvas pattern developed as per shape of body starts from HPS till upper or lower waist.
Side Seam: When back panel sewed with side panel. On the arm hole area there is some fullness need to be given on the time of attachment so it can help improving sleeve movement
Fullness need to be given below armhole specially on back panel while sewing side with back panel. This fullness hold the sleeve movement twist towards front while sleeve attached with body. By giving this fullness on back panel when sleeve fall towards front as per body structure, it req some extra pulling gap so can not twist upon hanging. fullness measurement should be as per pattern size of back panel as well its depend upon sleeve fall requirement too.
Armhole control wrinkling: Wrinkles or fullness used on those parts where more curve sewing require.
Armhole area(Sleeve attachment) known as the complicated operation in formal blazer manufacturing. Above image indicates wrinkles on armhole area with the help of armhole tape. These fullness helps when sleeve get stitched with body and lining with special machine. The fullness which was created by tape makes the sewing area more oval which absorbed the gathering created by seam margin while folded inside on the time of lining attachment.
It gives very clean visualization of sleeve attachment having no puckering on outer visible area.
Shoulder seam : Shoulder seam area also req some fullness to be set while sewing the body fab. in formal blazer shoulder pad used under shoulder seam which controls the fall of front and back fabric evenly. Shoulder pad covers the hollow structure of body on this area and and giving a clean look finish.
Without wrinkles if jacket get manufactured then shoulder seam might visualize Flexuous instead of straight because when front and back fabric wait pulls the shoulder it cant be straight without having wrinkles inside.
Upper sleeve stretch: Sleeve making and attaching both are the key points in formal jacket manufacturing. Here we see the sleeve making technique for formal jacket.
Outer layer of sleeve stitching taking will help you to achieve sleeve shape( slight band towards front).For that pattern need to be adjusted(One panel smaller then other). By this technique we can give stretch to sleeve seam, when it get relaxed it will form a band shape as per human body structure. it also maintain the fall of sleeve from up to down. More stretch can be given through ironing of body fab sleeve in sleeve structure buck in sewing line.
There are so many techniques like above operations used in formal blazer making. we have to understand the requirement of shape.
Whenever we are sewing any curve line or shape, after folding out side it give some opposite impression. Covering these impression through stitching technique make you the great technician.
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