Jacket or Suit Fusing Guidelines

Jacket Or Suit Fusing: 

When we are talking about jacket manufacturing then we have to go through internal material requirement of a jacket where fusing plays a significant role. Good quality jackets or suit need to be fused on several parts while its get sewn to give good drape upon wearing. In this blog you will find out why fusing require on several parts of jacket or suit and how we can use interlinings to make a quality product.

Here we go Through part wise fusing guidelines of a quality product jacket or suit:-

Front Panel fusing: Three types of fusing commonly used to make a jacket or suit. After detailing of all these three fusing will see where have to use these fusing in front panel and side panel as well on sleeve.

1. Woven fusing:- Also known as Body net fusing. Mostly used on front panel of jacket. For Jacket and suits polyester woven fusing is preferred to use with GSM Varies  between  40 to 90 as per fabric material and there thickness. Below are the benefits of woven fusing on garments.

* It helps to give curve and shape to garments.

* Enhance wrinkle resistance and elasticity of clothes.

* It Improves garment drape and enhance the stereo feeling.

* Prevents garment distortion and ensure to achieve an anticipative  design effect.

* Enhance the sense of thick, rich and warmness of clothes.

* It improves sewing efficiency and so on.

Note: Body net fusing color selection should be as per shell fabric. If fabric is lighter color then fusing color should be lighter or else darker color fusing will visible out side. Same applied for darker shell fabric also - if shell fabric is darker color then the fusing color selection should be also dark color only.

2. Non woven fusing: Also known as micro dot fusing. Uses of micro dot fusing on parts depends upon fabric quality and garments design. 100% polyester material prefer for making jacket and suits. GSM of the fusing varies between 15 to 50 as per fabric quality. See below specifications of micro dot fusing on garments.

* Enhance shrink resistance of shell fabric.

* Increase tear capability of shell fabric.

* It gives soft feel to fabric.

Note: Fusing color selection should be as per shell fabric color. Lighter color fusing for light color shell and dark color fusing for darker color shell fabric.

3. Reinforcement Fusing:- Also Non as NR Fusing. 100% Polyester material with  thread inside which helps to control fabric stretch-ability to give proper shape to the garment without any shape distortion.

Uses of These three fusing on front panel and side panel of jacket or suit:

Look at the below picture of fussed front panel of jacket with these above all three fusing. Will go through the detailing of uses after seeing the image.

 * Darker area indicates uses of woven fusing. Its mostly used on front part to give harder oval look  to jacket which is the first requirement of it.

* Non woven fusing used on shoulder area after using woven fusing as shoulder shape need to be more stuff while making jacket or suits. Its also used on other parts like side and arm hole separately to give shapes on those area's.

* On the above image we can able to see that NR fusing mostly got used on side seam area's as well on corner's to hold the fabric drop if upon stitching even the if the fabric wait is more.

Note:- Canvas is also playing master roll in jacket or suit manufacturing. Will go through canvas detailing in my next blog.

 

  

Jacket/Blazer manufacturing machine requirement

Jacket/ Blazer Manufacturing: Jacket or blazer making in garment industry is still a challenging job due to its technical requirement as well the special machines requirement.
There are countable number of manufacturer available for making blazer / suits in textile hub countries due to its high grade special  machine requirement and due to the cost of establishing the manufacturing plant is high.

Here we go through the types of machine requirement which is commonly used for a Jacket or Blazer manufacturing unit.

1. Single needle lock stitch machine:- This is the basic common machine requirement for all garment industries including Blazer/ Suit manufacturing unit. For set up of blazer/ Jacket manufacturing line this machine is the first requirement.

2. Welting Machine: There are 3-4 Welt pocket is commonly used in a blazer or Jacket In some design its more. Special automatic welting machine requirement is there for making bone pockets either its single bone Pkt or Double Bone pkt with Flap. If these pockets will be made manually then it will cost high as well require 6-7 time more man power. Average capacity of making Pkt per day with this machine is approx- 1200-1400 Pcs in a day.

3. Zigzag industrial stitching Machine:- This machine is used for Zigzag stitch on Chest pkt as well for collar felt attachment which is commonly used in this industries. This machine requirement will be on body and lining section.

4. Blind Hem stitch machine:- This machine used for blind hem inside the jacket for attaching chest piece as well used on other place if requirement is there. Machine requirement will be as per line capacity set up .

5. Flap Making automatic Machine:-These days this machine is in trend for this industries as it saves time for making flap automatically with help of jig profile as per shape requirement. Flap is basic requirement for both front pkt of a blazer.

6. Arm hole tape attach Machine:- This machine used to attach tape on armhole area for giving fullness as per sleeve adjustment. To run this machine operators need to be educated about the fullness requirement of product so they can control the machine as per product guideline.

7. Run Stitch with Edge cutter Machine:- This machine used for attachment of lining with body panel. Specially helps to give proper fullness at hem area. Operators need to be get proper guideline to use this machine as per product requirement. Number of machine requirement as per line capacity set up.

8. Tacking machine:- This machine used for tacking edge of facing and bottom edge of collar to break the lapel as per shape. No of machine require as per line capacity set up.

9. Sleeve Attaching machine:- Sleeve part made in separate section as well body and lining made separate for jackets. after body and lining assemble sleeve need to be attach through this special machine. Number of machine require as per line capacity set up.

10. Sleeve lining attach to armhole along with shoulder pad:- This machine helps to attach sleeve lining parts along with shoulder pad to armhole with control on stitch requirement as per shape of armhole. No of machine require as per line capacity set up.

11. Key hole Machine:- Most of all blazer require same hole on sleeve and keyhole on front part as well on lapel. minimum two machine require for one line set up( One in sleeve section and another one in assembly section).

12. Button attach machine:- Mostly jacket having two size of button requirement(24L&32L). 24 l buttons used on sleeve same hole and inside lining pkt where as 32L button used on front part. Minimum two machine require for line set up( One in sleeve section and another in Finishing section).

13. Bar tack Machine:- Bar tack used on jackets pkt mostly on inside pkts. This machine also helps in vent tuck cross stitch after changing the frame. No of machine requirement as per line capacity set up.

14. Flat steam iron Table:- Pressing tables require in jacket manufacturing on various operation. Manufacturing unit decides to use no of flat steam iron table as per there line capacity set up.

15. Shoulder pad fixing pressing machine:- This machine helps to fix the shoulder pad on body with pressing. This machine require on body stitching section. One machine is req for one line set up.

16. Front Pressing Programming machine: Jacket finishing req types of Buck pressing machine and flat pressing machine for jacket pressing.Manufacturing units are using pressing machine as per there requirement. Different types of machine req part wise pressing.
Here we go step wise pressing machine requirement.
For first step pressing(Front pressing) below pressing machine req to press the front panel of jacket to give the proper front shape of jacket.

17.Back and side Pressing Machine:- Buck machine should have the shape as per back and side to press the back and side jacket as per there shape.

18. Lapel pressing Machine: Lapel is the main attractive part of jacket and for giving its proper shape there is a need of lapel shape buck machine. Below machine helps to give the shape.

19. Shoulder and armhole pressing machine:- This type of steam pressing req to press the shoulder and arm hole area of a jacket.This machine designed as per shape of armhole and sleeve to give proper  shape.

20. Sleeve Pressing machine:- Jacket sleeve is having there specific shape. Sleeve shape Buck req to press these area. This machine helps to give the proper shape of Sleeve.

21. Sleeve Nipping Machine:- After sleeve pressing there are some touch up req on armhole area to give the clean finish look. This small buck machine helps to clean sleeve top part.

22. Lining Pressing Machine:- To give clean inside finish of a jacket, Lining pressing machine req. This machine helps to press lining.

23. Small part or repressing Machine:- Some small buck steam pressing machine req to give clean finish everywhere in jacket. This machines used to press the all those parts which was not covered by advance automatic pressing machine listed above.

24. Final Touch up pressing machine:- While pressing the jacket through automates machine - some wrinkles might occur on some parts which is getting cleared manually through this machine.

Some more machines can be used by manufacturer as per there convenience as jacket operations handled by highly technical persons and operation can deffer from one to other experts as all experts having there own concept of making jackets.

Easy steps to learn - Jacket or Garment Merchandising

Apparel Merchandising:-

Merchandising process involves the production of designs and distribution of final product to end users. In other sentence -A person who deals with product or merchandise is called as merchandiser. Merchandisers are working closely with designers to ensure that designs will be affordable and desired by the target market.

Garment merchandising can be divide into two types:

1. Retail merchandising:-Retail merchandisers manage store allocation and maximise the sales.

2. Product merchandising: Product merchandiser manage the flow of materials to suppliers and flow of product to store and then pass the control to retail merchandiser.

How to learn product merchandising: Go through the below steps to learn product merchandising of garment in easy way.

Step-1
Product Study:-
Merchandiser have to study the product before dealing with it. If the product is garment then go through the below information about product.
* Product design and specification.
* Garment fit or spec detail
* Construction detail
* Labelling and Packing Information
* Trims and there consumption

Step-2

BOM preparation: As an apparel merchandiser prepare the bill of material or list of material for a product. Garments BOM can categories into four divisions -Cutting,stitching,finishing and packing.

Cutting Bill of Material List -Includes Fabrics,Contrast Fabrics,Linings, Pocketing and Types of Interlinings.Consumption work out need for all material with the help of cad or cutting team for this division.

Stitching BOM:- Each and every material which require  to complete the design as per construction requirement listed in this category. Material list can be short and long as per design and technical requirement of the product.

Finishing and Packing BOM:- Finishing and packing of garment need several trims as per customer requirement. Merchandiser have to get all information about packaging from buyers. It includes branding, retail price,product safety and etc.

Step-3
TNA Making:- Merchandiser have to make TNA(Time and action plan) sheet to execute and order. They have to work closely with each dept and customer to fix the time line of each process in this sheet. As per TNA time line merchandiser have to commit the delivery date of an order to customer or as per delivery date asked by customer has to make TNA(depends upon customer comfort).This sheet includes activity like materials procurement,sample submission, production planing,etc.

Step-4
Cost break down(CBD) Making:- Cost factor is playing main role for any business. Merchandiser need to make proper cost break down sheet for a product to Negotiate with customer and supplier. To make a proper CBD merchandiser have to get below information.
* Trims cost
* Man power cost
* Finance cost
* Transportation and documentation cost
* Margin
* Other cost

Step-5
Materiel Or Trims Study:- As a merchandiser trims information is necessary to deal with product. For each and every trims need to collect below information to offer it to customer for selection and after selection its help to purchase the material.
* Material Type
* Material Composition
* Material Construction
* Material Color
* Material Size
* Material source
* Article No
*Etc

Step-6
Trims Purchasing:- After taking approval from customer, merchandiser have to generate Purchase requirement of each material with the help of BOM. Stock availability information need to check before raising Purchase order. Purchasing follow up from supplier can be taken care by purchase team or by merchandiser depends upon organisation setup.

Step-7
Co-ordination and Follow up- Merchandiser is working as bridge between production unit and buyers. They have to work closely along with all dept and customer to pass out the information to each others to meet customer requirement. Merchandiser have to involve in all production activity to ensure on time production. They also need to know about quality stander of customer to check each activity to ensure quality product supply.

Step-8
Shipping and Documentation:- Shipment or dispatch is the last step of garment merchandising. For arranging dispatch of material merchandiser have to collect below data for proper documentation and safe delivery of product.

* Consignee address and details
* Shipment mode
* Shipment term
* Shipping Method
* Shipment value
* Shipment wt
* Shipment volume
* Logistic information
* Payment Term
* Shipper information
*Etc

How to make line plan for garment production

Line plan:Daily production target plan of multiple styles in order to meet delivery date of each style by keeping in knowledge about line capacity as per construction features and order quantity of each styles.  Line plan is the key aspect in garment planning division. Planning section is making the production out cum plan as per line capacity in order to achieve delivery date. Planner needs to do backward and forward planning based on lead time.Mostly line planning is made after discussion with team of Production and IE.

In order to make target achievable line plan you should have to keep below require data when making a line plan.
1. Order detail sheet
2. No Of Line and there capacity
3. Style SAM as per quality stander
4. Average manpower absenteeism percentage
5. Production lead time of an order
6. Holiday list

See below line plan chart to understand all above requirement sequence wise in order to make a line plan.

1. Order detail sheet:Order Detail sheet is the first requirement for making a line plan in order to take decision about line selection for an order as per there quantity and production lead time considering delivery date.

Order No	Category	Order qty	Delivery date
MARITO	Trouser	6400	31st July
Jet king	Trouser	33000	31st Aug
Merina	Trouser	2336	3rd Aug
Elvis	Trouser	5400	4th Aug
Ertica	Trouser	6000	19th Aug
Stylek	Trouser	3240	28th Aug

2. No Of Line and there capacity: Its very important for a planner to know about No of production line available for total order in hand.Capacity of line is require to set daily production target of an order.Average Line capacity chart can be prepare as below.

Line No.	No. of Operator	Minutes/Day	Line Efficiency	Absenteeism %	Capacity available
		(Daily working Hrs. X 60)
Line 1	30	480	40%	10%	5184
Line 2	28	480	50%	10%	6048
Line 3	32	480	55%	10%	7603.2
Line 4	32	480	45%	10%	6220.8
Line 5	25	480	39%	10%	4212

 

3. Style SAM/SMV : Stander allowed minute or stander minute value of  style helps a planner to fix daily target qty of a line by calculating production rate through it.

4. Average manpower absenteeism percentage: Man power absenteeism is common in garment or any other industries.Line capacity can't complete without knowing absenteeism in order to make actual capacity of production line.

5. Production lead time of an order: Production lead time helps to select no of production lines for  style as per there qty to complete production on time.

Order No.	Loaded to Line No.	Order Quantity	Style SMV	Capacity Required (Minutes)	Capacity available per day	Capacity Required (Days)
MARITO	Line-1	6400	28	179200	5184	35
Jet king	Line-2	33000	25	825000	6048	136
Merina	Line-3	2336	20	46720	7603.2	6
Elvis	Line-4	5400	10	54000	6220.8	9
Ertica	Line-5	6000	18	108000	4212	26
Stylek	Line-1	3240	28	90720	5184	18

 

6. Holiday list: List of holiday need to know while making line plan order to extend the date if there any holiday in between.

Style change production lose need to be consider while making a line plan, for example-  If line-1 per day capacity for style is 400pcc. But production starting days (first,second and third day) the output will be in ascending orders like- First day-50pcs, second day-150 pcs, and third day-300pcs after that out cum will be 400pcs/day.