Wednesday, 29 June 2022

Formal blazer operation break down

Blazer operation break down(OB) : As we know formal jacket is combination of three layer materials( Body fab, Lining, interlining & canvas). That's why Jacket manufacturing known as lengthy and complicated process. It's not an easy task to make Formal category jacket Operation bulletin. 

Formal jacket SAM approximately calculated from 95- 105 Minutes. Depending upon style and no of pocket plays an important role.

In this article will go through all operation of a formal blazer and we can calculate the actual SAM of a formal blazer.

For better understanding will go through the man power requirement as well which can help most of people those who are interested in jacket production or jacket manufacturing set up. 

No of machine for the planned quantity is also going to mention in this article which can help to set a jacket production line.

Going to start with the format :-







As you can see in above format, there is style description mentioned - Men's jacket with elbow patch in checks fabric. 

Per day planned qty set up is for -600pcs. In this format section is also mentioned which categories all operation into section wise requirement. 

As have mentioned in my previous articles - jacket production can be categories in to five  section as below.

1. Sleeve, 2. lining & collar, 3. Body, 4. Assembly-1 , 5. Assembly -2.

Sleeve section SAM and Manpower allocation:-


As you can see in above chart of sleeve section, In the bottom the man power allocation has sown as below:-

Operators Man power-17.5

Indirect workers- 8.5, Ironer-6. and the SAM of sleeve section will be- 17.27.

Like this we go through other next section of lining  & collar :-







Lining and collar Section SAM and manpower allocation calculation done as below:

Operators requirements: 29.50, Indirect workers:- 4, Ironer:-7 and

SAM-23.41.

Next Section is Body Section:


Body Section SAM and manpower allocation total numbers are as below:

Operators:-31, Indirect workers:- 11, Ironer:- 8 and 

SAM :-24.32.

Assembly -1 section:-


Assembly-1 section Break up as below:- 

SAM:-20.95, Operators:-19.5, Indirect workers:-7 , Ironer:- 14

Assembly-2  Operation bulletins are as below:


Assembly -2  section final calculation sown as below:-

Total No of operators: 22.50, Indirect workers- 9, Ironer -2

and SAM of this section is:- 15.84

We have covered all section operation break down of a formal jacket or blazer which made in industrial jacket manufacturing units.

These timing data may change organization to organization as every one jacket manufacturer following there own concept of making blazer. So its might possible to change in data at Some operations and timing calculation change as per  operation data.

Now we calculate the all section Operation together and calculate the total data as below.


Total calculation shown as operator no-119, indirect workers-39.50, Ironers:- 35.
Total Sam of this jacket in particular organization calculated as - 95.61
In above all section chart the total actual manpower data no can very from chart as the over all actual requirement taken in to calculation.

After Getting the manpower and SAM detail will check the actual no of machine requirement against this OB.


 
Total No of machine list has shown in above chart.

Note:- Pressing section we have not taken in this chart so the calculation of machine number and manpower detail is against stitching line only.






Tuesday, 14 June 2022

Technical sewing operations of formal blazer.

Technical Sewing Operations : Formal blazer made with two layers having canvas and felt in between to give formal body shape visualization to a jacket.
Formal category apparel need proper visual attractive look to impress customer. Raw material quality surely play an important role in terms of product feel as well its look.

To give proper visual attractive look as per body shape to a jacket, we will discuss here about some operation which reflects out side visual look of a jacket.

Bottom Seam in a double breasted Jacket: Below image indicating the seam margin difference in both front panel at bottom
As per image the deference in margin should be 0.5cm more in right side bottom compare to left. It helps to hide the stitch at cross point. 

Under collar felt attachment: When attaching collar felt on collar it should be overlapped 0.5 to 0.7cm on under collar band.


Over lapping felt helps to increase bulginess on collar folding point area. It improves the collar stand/drag in proper way to look perfect.

Side and Centre vent attachment: When making vent at back (Either center vent or side vent). the sewing angle of vent should be in 90*. It helps the vent folding look good upon turning out.


Shoulder Pad setting: Shoulder pad setting is the most important operation in terms of jacket making

In below drawing its indicated that the chest piece should get overlapped on shoulder pad. Both suppose to place in curve shape following the human body structure. Fall of chest going to be oval with this technique.



Sleeve Seam at top: Top sleeve seam must be opened at both front and back side, Front should be more comparing back approx. 1cm.


 
Sleeve seam opening helps to cover shoulder pad pick point, It gives clean look to sleeve fall from shoulder.
 
Chest Pocket Bag Reinforcement: While assembling the jacket after making body, lining and sleeve part,
There is some operation need to be done inside to avoid any technical issue. Here we are discussing about pocket bag fixation. You can able to see the pocket bag tucked with armhole and lapen to hold the bag so it could not change his actual shape while wearing.


If inside pocket bag tucked securely then its give clean look on front area or else if pocket bag moved inside then the folded bag impression will visualize upon wearing. 

Center Back Pleat: Here we are discussing about center vent operation, Jacket having center vent need to be follow the pleat making as shown in the picture. Curve and seam margin need to be adjusted as per design and pattern requirement. 



Body lining attachment with collar: Jacket lining layer always give comfort upon wearing. Selection of lining is also very important. Here we are discussing about the lining attachment to other parts. In below image we can see the instruction of lining attachment with fullness. These fullness given for loose fitting of lining comparing to body. We are seeing shape from out side but inside movement of body can get coved by lining access part only. When we are talking about lining then first know the pattern of lining will be bigger the body so it can freely adjust the movement of any body part. 
if fullness not given then when wearer stretch his hand or band his body might damage the seam or tear the fabric due to additional force involvement .
Sleeve lining attachment with man Fabric:  This operation done while making the sleeve. the margin difference in seam opening helps lining not visible out side. due to this reason lining is covered by body fabric and these things applied on every stage of body and lining attachment where looseness given for internal movement.





Hope these operation helps you to know about the detailing. In my working experience have found that peoples are doing any operation but they don't know why its done in this way.
I m trying to provide the basic concept where you can understand the operation and why those operation require so you can use other techniques as well if you know the reason behind the operation.

Follow me for more technical knowledge on jacket operation , material and cost analysis. 

Thursday, 9 June 2022

Technical details of formal blazer manufacturing

Technical details of blazer manufacturing(Technician concept): When we are talking about technical aspects of blazer manufacturing then first thing getting in our mind is,  how the blazer manufactured ? . I have written some article on production process as well. 
In this article will go through some blazer manufacturing operations which play critical role towards the quality product manufacturing which is basically used for high fashion blazer manufacturing.

The first thing noticed by any brand or buyer in jacket manufacturing unit is about there techniques of making critical or important sewing/ pressing operations.
Every brand , buyer as well manufacturing unit have there own technician to get there product as desired.

With my working experience in this field i can say that every technician have there own thoughts about jacket manufacturing process and it's quality control.

In apparel industry blazer technicians are known as the pillar of organization. They represent organizational quality standard of there product.

Now might our mind raise question - Why that much technicality req to make a jacket? 
Is it necessary ? 
Name of operation there techniques play important role?

Q. Why that much technicality req to make a jacket or blazer?
Ans. Jacket or blazer is representing human body shape. To give a proper shape in sewing, there are lots of operation need to be done to get desired shape. In simple word - If you have to give shape to fabric then you need to use some other material so it can hold fabric as per req shape. Not only material , way and place of using them is also play an important role. Finding the way and place known as techniques. As better anyone can understand these base can be a great technician in this field.

Q. Is it necessary ?
Ans: Yes, because giving a body structure to a fabric in such way can't be possible without using techniques.

Q. Name of operation there techniques play important role?
Ans: this is the point about this article is for ..
Will go through some critical operation which play an important role towards visualization as well proper shape fall as per req.


Operations:
Chest piece preparation: Chest piece is a combination of chest canvas , yoke canvas and felt which got assemble with the help of bridal tape.
Chest piece used in blazer to give proper breast shape as per human body to a fabric. It can be half length till  upper waist or full length till lower waist as per design requirement.

In this image we can able to see that how many materials and darts were used to give shape like a man chest.
You can see instruction for making wrinkles in canvas with the help of hard tape. This technique used for lapel turn up. Lapel turning point is start from canvas end where tape used to hold it with fabric through sew. When lapel turn as per chest and waist shape, it req some inner space to get proper oval shape. Wrinkle help to achieve it.
Wrinkle measurement depends upon technician thought and pattern shape as well.
This chest piece made with the combination of- chest canvas, yoke canvas and chest felt. canvas pattern developed as per shape of body starts from  HPS till upper or lower waist.

Side Seam: When back panel sewed with side panel. On the arm hole area there is some fullness need to be given on the time of attachment so it can help improving sleeve movement

Fullness need to be given below armhole specially on back panel while sewing side with back panel. This fullness hold the sleeve movement twist towards front while sleeve attached with body. By giving this fullness on back panel when sleeve fall towards front as per body structure, it req some extra pulling gap so can not twist upon hanging. fullness measurement should be as per pattern size of back panel as well its depend upon sleeve fall requirement too.

Armhole control wrinkling: Wrinkles or fullness used on those parts where more curve sewing require. 
Armhole area(Sleeve attachment) known as the complicated operation in formal blazer manufacturing. Above image indicates wrinkles on armhole area with the help of armhole tape. These fullness helps when sleeve get stitched with body and lining with special machine. The fullness which was created by tape makes the sewing area more oval which absorbed the gathering created by seam margin while folded inside on the time of lining attachment.
It gives very clean visualization of sleeve attachment having no puckering on outer visible area.

Shoulder seam : Shoulder seam area also req some fullness to be set while sewing the body fab. in formal blazer shoulder pad used under shoulder seam which controls the fall of front and back fabric evenly. Shoulder pad covers the hollow structure of body on this area and and giving a clean look finish.


Without wrinkles if jacket get manufactured then shoulder seam might visualize Flexuous instead of straight because when front and back fabric wait pulls the shoulder it cant be straight without having wrinkles inside.

Upper sleeve stretch: Sleeve making and attaching both are the key points in formal jacket manufacturing. Here we see the sleeve making technique for formal jacket. 
Outer layer of sleeve stitching taking will help you to achieve sleeve shape( slight band towards front).For that pattern need to be adjusted(One panel smaller then other). By this technique we can give stretch to sleeve seam, when it get relaxed it will form a band shape as per human body structure. it also maintain the fall of sleeve from up to down. More stretch can be given through ironing of body fab sleeve in sleeve structure buck in sewing line.


There are so many techniques like above operations used in formal blazer making. we have to understand the requirement of shape. 
Whenever we are sewing any curve line or shape, after folding out side it give some opposite impression. Covering these impression through stitching technique make you the great technician.

follow our site for more detailing.. 

Tuesday, 7 June 2022

Jacket production Process - Step by Step

Jacket Production: In the field of apparel, jacket or blazer production known as  most unique product due to its construction process/ cost factor/formal look as well for its special machine requirement while making it.
Jacket is a combination of outer and inner layer by having shape fixation material inside to get proper formal look 


In this article we will go through step wise process of Jacket production to know the advantage 

Step-1 , Pattern:

Mostly other garments req 2 to 3 set of pattern plotter as per raw material used in styling but jacket have deferent case as types of raw material used in jacket is maximum compare to any other apparel product.
For jacket making below list of pattern(plotter) req to cut the all raw material which utilize in 
blazer manufacturing.



Body Fabric Pattern.
contrast fabric pattern
body lining pattern 
contrast lining pattern
woven fusing pattern
non woven fusing pattern
Reinforcement fusing pattern
Body canvas pattern
yoke canvas pattern
Body felt pattern
Sleeve head pattern
collar felt pattern

Some other ready pattern also going to use as per style requirements to give  clean finish .

Step-2
After Pattern Finalization of all raw material, second step is to make plotter for bulk cutting.
Plotter finalization(lay Length)  depends upon size breakup against order qty so pattern sizes can be adjust as per size wise order qty in plotter.
Step -3 
Layering is the process which starts after plotter length finalization. All above given material have to be layered for cutting.
Jacket production process is complicated due to such lengthy process. Every material have to cut separately and they having there separate importance, any mistake anywhere result 
quality issue in final product.
No of layers depend upon order quantity break up as well thickness of material.
layering can be done manually or by auto layer machine.

Step -4
Cutting is the next step after layering of all raw material which used in blazer. Cutting process done manual as well with specialized auto cutter.

Step -5 
Panel numbering is the next process after cutting to control the shading issue within garments by using sticker along with lot no(Fabric roll wise/shade wise lot no.) on each panel.
Numbering system helps when the assembling process starts so each lot no can be assemble together.

Step-6 
Blazer manufacturing require fusing on several panel. Fusing of those panels done after stickering(Numbering)  because if fusing done before Stickering then the panel mismatch probability of garments will be higher as its done on assumption basis.

Step -7
Shorting is the process also called as bundling. Its done on the basis of fabric roll. On the time of layering all manufacturers follow one shade one bundle policies. It might be one fabric roll layer = one bundle. No of pcs in bundle depend upon fabric roll length. 
 
Step -8
Marking and line loading done when the bundling process get completed. Marking process having there own importance in blazer manufacturing. 
Marking done specially for dart as well for pocket placement. Marking should be done as per design requirement to achieve proper placement of any operation or part as per define measurement. 

Step-9 
Line Loading is the next process after marking on panels. 
Jacket line loading can be categories into 4 divisions as per line setting. Jacket have mostly 5 separate manufacturing divisions to complete one stitching. Below is the category wise manufacturing divisions.
a) Body Fabric sewing section: In this section all body fabric parts get stitched together by adding pockets, darts , shoulder pget added in this ad fixation as well any other specific requirement of design.


b) Lining sewing section: Lining is the inner layer of blazer having soft feel and its give comfort upon wearing. In this sewing section all lining parts get assembled to form the inner shape construction. Inside pocket and piping or other construction depends upon design requirement. 
c) Sleeve Sewing section: Jacket sleeve made by using outer layer of body fab and inner layer with lining material. Decorative buttons and keyhole on sleeve get added in this section.

d) Canvas Sewing section: To give proper formal shape to jacket its necessary to use Chest canvas , felt, yoke canvas and sleeve head canvas along with sleeve head felt. These all materials used in-between  both the layers(Body fab and lining) Attached with body fab with basting stitch. 
Before sewing these materials in product. Theses materials get assemble together as per there shape and materials( chest canvas sew along with yoke canvas and chest felt where as sleeve canvas stitched with sleeve head felt).

e) Assembly section: Once all parts sewing get completed(Body, lining , sleeve and canvas). These all parts get assembled in one sewing section which know as assembly section. 
 In this section Outer layer get stitched with lining layer and then sleeve get attached with these both in such way that stitch line should not be visible out side so all sewing operation done from inside only.
Lots of special sewing machine req to assemble a jacket. Shoulder pad attachment and  Button hole also made in this section only.

Step -10
After jacket sewing done, Finishing process get started, It includes - Thread Cutting, Pressing, Buttoning, Checking, tagging . 
* Stitched jacket have less thread to cut as there sewing operation done inside and most of thread got trimmed in stitching line only.
* For jacket Pressing there is lots of special pressing equipment require to give proper body shape to a jacket. for example  
Body pressing machine: This equipment have body shade to give same look to a jacket while pressing.
Like that every parts pressing machine is available in market to give proper shape to each part of jacket like- Lining pressing, Sleeve pressing, Lapel pressing , Sleeve neeping,  shoulder pressing etc.
* Buttoning done once pressing got completed  because if button get attached previous to press might leave shining on garment while pressing.
* Section wise checking is the process which got followed in sewing line. But final checking done after pressing to see the actual impact of shape and other aspects of the product.
* If there is any tag or label(Label on sleeve) which require to added in garment get done in finishing section.
* Step -11
Packing process is the last part of jacket or apparel manufacturing. In this section garment get embellished with price tag , any other decorative tag or lapel pin. After tagging its get hanged on brand hanger if any and then polybag put upon it as well suit cover get added if req. 

Now the jacket is ready to dispatch either by hanging mode or in carton packing mode. Hanging mode is recommendable for formal category.

Hope this article helps you in the way you were looking for it. 

 

Tuesday, 16 February 2021

Jacket BOM(Bill Of Materials) for production

JACKET OR BLAZER BILL OF MATERIAL: Jacket bill of material suppose to be the list of raw materials used in jacket manufacturing with there category, description, require quantity and other sourcing aspect details which helps merchandiser to track there orders and get all required raw materials  on time before production start date.

A bill Of material suppose to be centralized source of information containing complete list of items(raw material) used to manufacture a jacket.
A format require to gather information about all raw materials to make a proper BOM.
See below stander format of a jacket BOM. Format can be extended as per information availability. 

How to make BOM for jacket:
Step- 1  Order information is the first requirement while making Jacket BOM which suppose to be displayed on top of the format. Order information include all below data about the jacket order.
*Item, Buyer and style information
*Fit of blazer and season information.
*Order qty along with size break up detail.
*Order receiving date and dispatch date information.
*Production start date
*Merchant Name, Approval By, Etc


Step-2 After order information entry, product information require to display in BOM. It includes complete information about raw materials starting with item description to procurement status. See below the list of information req to make a stander BOM.
* Raw material Category
* Material description, color and size of material.
* Material Consumption and unit of measure.
* Material require, stock availability.
* Ordering quantity, supplier, material ETD and ETA.
* Remarks, status and other crucial information if any.




Step-3 The crucial part of BOM of jacket or any other product starts from the third step of entry where need to make list of raw material and then have to get there final consumption as per product styles and there pattern. 
Each and every material which require to make a product till there packing stage starts from fabric or yarn need to have in this list so there not any interruption come on the time of production.

BOM raw material consumption should be accurate so no shortage or access will occur on or after production(Some common items is the exception in this criteria as they ordered in bulk and utilized in most of products like Inner trims, cello tape, lock pins, etc).

Extra consumption need to be finalize for each particular material as per there behaving nature or as per there wastage calculation. Order qty plays most important role while selecting extra percentage of material.

Material Description need to be very clear in this list so item which got purchased by others also should be as per requirement or else it results to be wrong purchasing which convert into production loss due to actual material unavailability.

While making a BOM of any product, Merchants should have to be very care full while making entry of product description , there consumption, unit of measure, extra consumption, stock availability and others.
As a Merchant while you are studying product for there raw material uses, your concentration label should be as per garment technician who check each part of product from outer side as well inner side and then product specification who made at by a merchant, to see where and what type of construction is there and what materials require to make the product. It helps to understand the consumption of materials and total no of material require.

Consumption finalization can be done by taking help of cad dept/IE dept also by self evaluation of product.  
  
Jacket or blazer material list can be categories in three divisions as per there requirement.

a* Cutting
b* Sewing
c* Finishing and packing  

Cutting BOM of jacket/blazer : In this list all material should be interred as per cutting section need.
Jacket or blazer cutting BOM list suppose to contain the below list.


This list got prepared as per standard jacket construction. This list might get change if the style and pattern of jacket will be deferent.  item description need to be selected as per raw material purchasing source availability. Name of article also get change per supplier code so it can traceable from supplier as well from our end to avoid wrong purchasing.

Before releasing BOM for purchasing, all materials should have customer approval or self approval as per end customer requirement.

Sewing BOM of Jacket/Blazer:- Sewing requirement list of blazer should be in this list. Here one thing need to be focused that size wise materials requirement suppose to be as per order size break up.
Go through below stander blazer sewing requirement list.


Same material change equation apply which have gone through cutting BOM list of a blazer.

Finishing/Packing BOM of Jacket/Blazer: After sewing jacket or blazer got moved to finishing and packing section which might be combined or separate sections.
Finishing of blazer is nothing but pressing and tucking, after that blazer moved to packing section where the below list of material req to pack the product. 


Material change equation same as per cutting and sewing. Most of time blazer shipped in hanging mode where the list of packing get change as there no requirement of cartons and there sticker but the new requirement arrived as per container construction requirement.

Hope this article will help you to make or understand the BOM of blazer or other products.



Sunday, 7 February 2021

Uses of canvas in Jacket production

Jacket Canvas:  Canvas is nothing but a type of fabric which having plain weave made out with cotton, Linen, synthetic and wool  yarns.
Canvas fabric is also known for being Durable, Heavy duty and sturdy. Canvas having water resistant or Water proof nature as per its yarn combination.


 When we are talking about the uses of canvas in jacket manufacturing, Firstly have to know where and why canvas require in jacket or suit manufacturing.

High quality product jacket manufacturer are using canvas on Mostly three parts in blazer or jacket as per jacket technicians requirement to give rich and fabulous look.

1. Chest Canvas: In Jacket manufacturing ,canvas can be used on chest part as per design and quality requirements. Mostly chest canvas can be categories into two parts in blazers(Half canvas and Full Canvas. 




Half canvas: Length of canvas inside jacket suppose to be shorter in length compare to front jacket length. Mostly half canvas size should be on around waist length. for fixation of canvas bridal tape should be used along with body net(Woven) fusing. Body net fused along with  body fabric parts in front panel of a blazer so canvas and woven fusing is holding body fabric to get a proper body shape as per pattern of a blazer. Felt is also req on front area over canvas to cover the harshness of canvas  and built the chest shape properly.

Full Canvas: Length of canvas will be as per front length  of a blazer. It covers all front panel area. Other all materials used as per half canvas jacket only. Full canvas used in blazer to give more formal look . Mostly full canvas jacket is getting designed for straight fit body shape.


2. Yoke Canvas: Canvas can be used on yoke parts in front panel. Technicians are suggesting to use yoke canvas because the human body shape having some unevenness comparing to shoulder and chest area. To full fill the proper shoulder drop, getting matched with chest fall, yoke canvas is playing important role by using it over chest canvas only on yoke area. Double layer of canvas on yoke area is covering the human body shape properly as per formal look requirement of designs.


Yoke canvas length get decided by pattern makers as per body measurements.

3. Shoulder canvas: Canvas is also require on shoulder area of a jacket. Specially canvas require on sleeve attachment areas as jacket sleeve fall is always being straight. While sleeve getting attached with jacket body, It gives straight fall look because canvas is holding both shoulder and sleeve together.
Some times shoulder pad is also having canvas on its upper area but the quality of canvas suppose to be thinner and smother compare to other two canvas.



Horse hair canvas is most popular in jacket manufacturing due to its nature. It enhance the look of blazer shape because its bounciness nature. Cost of horse hair canvas is high so these days manufacturers believe in synthetic canvas uses as synthetic canvases are look like similar to horse hair canvas and its behave also like horse hair canvas as per quality. economically synthetic canvas is preferred by most of manufacturers these days.


Wednesday, 27 January 2021

Jacket or Suit Fusing Guidelines

Jacket Or Suit Fusing: 
When we are talking about jacket manufacturing then we have to go through internal material requirement of a jacket where fusing plays a significant role. Good quality jackets or suit need to be fused on several parts while its get sewn to give good drape upon wearing. In this blog you will find out why fusing require on several parts of jacket or suit and how we can use interlinings to make a quality product.

Here we go Through part wise fusing guidelines of a quality product jacket or suit:-

Front Panel fusing: Three types of fusing commonly used to make a jacket or suit. After detailing of all these three fusing will see where have to use these fusing in front panel and side panel as well on sleeve.

1. Woven fusing:- Also known as Body net fusing. Mostly used on front panel of jacket. For Jacket and suits polyester woven fusing is preferred to use with GSM Varies  between  40 to 90 as per fabric material and there thickness. Below are the benefits of woven fusing on garments.

* It helps to give curve and shape to garments.
* Enhance wrinkle resistance and elasticity of clothes.
* It Improves garment drape and enhance the stereo feeling.
* Prevents garment distortion and ensure to achieve an anticipative  design effect.
* Enhance the sense of thick, rich and warmness of clothes.
* It improves sewing efficiency and so on.

Note: Body net fusing color selection should be as per shell fabric. If fabric is lighter color then fusing color should be lighter or else darker color fusing will visible out side. Same applied for darker shell fabric also - if shell fabric is darker color then the fusing color selection should be also dark color only.



2. Non woven fusing: Also known as micro dot fusing. Uses of micro dot fusing on parts depends upon fabric quality and garments design. 100% polyester material prefer for making jacket and suits. GSM of the fusing varies between 15 to 50 as per fabric quality. See below specifications of micro dot fusing on garments.

* Enhance shrink resistance of shell fabric.
* Increase tear capability of shell fabric.
* It gives soft feel to fabric.

Note: Fusing color selection should be as per shell fabric color. Lighter color fusing for light color shell and dark color fusing for darker color shell fabric.
3. Reinforcement Fusing:- Also Non as NR Fusing. 100% Polyester material with  thread inside which helps to control fabric stretch-ability to give proper shape to the garment without any shape distortion.


Uses of These three fusing on front panel and side panel of jacket or suit:
Look at the below picture of fussed front panel of jacket with these above all three fusing. Will go through the detailing of uses after seeing the image.
 * Darker area indicates uses of woven fusing. Its mostly used on front part to give harder oval look  to jacket which is the first requirement of it.

* Non woven fusing used on shoulder area after using woven fusing as shoulder shape need to be more stuff while making jacket or suits. Its also used on other parts like side and arm hole separately to give shapes on those area's.

* On the above image we can able to see that NR fusing mostly got used on side seam area's as well on corner's to hold the fabric drop if upon stitching even the if the fabric wait is more.

Note:- Canvas is also playing master roll in jacket or suit manufacturing. Will go through canvas detailing in my next blog.



 
  

Formal blazer operation break down

Blazer operation break down(OB) : As we know formal jacket is combination of three layer materials( Body fab, Lining, interlining & canv...