Jacket production Process - Step by Step

Jacket Production: In the field of apparel, jacket or blazer production known as  most unique product due to its construction process/ cost factor/formal look as well for its special machine requirement while making it.

Jacket is a combination of outer and inner layer by having shape fixation material inside to get proper formal look 

In this article we will go through step wise process of Jacket production to know the advantage 

Step-1 , Pattern:

Mostly other garments req 2 to 3 set of pattern plotter as per raw material used in styling but jacket have deferent case as types of raw material used in jacket is maximum compare to any other apparel product.

For jacket making below list of pattern(plotter) req to cut the all raw material which utilize in 

blazer manufacturing.

Body Fabric Pattern.

contrast fabric pattern

body lining pattern 

contrast lining pattern

woven fusing pattern

non woven fusing pattern
Reinforcement fusing pattern

Body canvas pattern

yoke canvas pattern

Body felt pattern

Sleeve head pattern

collar felt pattern

Some other ready pattern also going to use as per style requirements to give  clean finish .

Step-2

After Pattern Finalization of all raw material, second step is to make plotter for bulk cutting.

Plotter finalization(lay Length)  depends upon size breakup against order qty so pattern sizes can be adjust as per size wise order qty in plotter.

Step -3 

Layering is the process which starts after plotter length finalization. All above given material have to be layered for cutting.

Jacket production process is complicated due to such lengthy process. Every material have to cut separately and they having there separate importance, any mistake anywhere result 

quality issue in final product.

No of layers depend upon order quantity break up as well thickness of material.

layering can be done manually or by auto layer machine.

Step -4

Cutting is the next step after layering of all raw material which used in blazer. Cutting process done manual as well with specialized auto cutter.

Step -5 

Panel numbering is the next process after cutting to control the shading issue within garments by using sticker along with lot no(Fabric roll wise/shade wise lot no.) on each panel.

Numbering system helps when the assembling process starts so each lot no can be assemble together.

Step-6 

Blazer manufacturing require fusing on several panel. Fusing of those panels done after stickering(Numbering)  because if fusing done before Stickering then the panel mismatch probability of garments will be higher as its done on assumption basis.

Step -7

Shorting is the process also called as bundling. Its done on the basis of fabric roll. On the time of layering all manufacturers follow one shade one bundle policies. It might be one fabric roll layer = one bundle. No of pcs in bundle depend upon fabric roll length. 

 

Step -8

Marking and line loading done when the bundling process get completed. Marking process having there own importance in blazer manufacturing. 

Marking done specially for dart as well for pocket placement. Marking should be done as per design requirement to achieve proper placement of any operation or part as per define measurement. 

Step-9 

Line Loading is the next process after marking on panels. 

Jacket line loading can be categories into 4 divisions as per line setting. Jacket have mostly 5 separate manufacturing divisions to complete one stitching. Below is the category wise manufacturing divisions.

a) Body Fabric sewing section: In this section all body fabric parts get stitched together by adding pockets, darts , shoulder pget added in this ad fixation as well any other specific requirement of design.

b) Lining sewing section: Lining is the inner layer of blazer having soft feel and its give comfort upon wearing. In this sewing section all lining parts get assembled to form the inner shape construction. Inside pocket and piping or other construction depends upon design requirement. 

c) Sleeve Sewing section: Jacket sleeve made by using outer layer of body fab and inner layer with lining material. Decorative buttons and keyhole on sleeve get added in this section.

d) Canvas Sewing section: To give proper formal shape to jacket its necessary to use Chest canvas , felt, yoke canvas and sleeve head canvas along with sleeve head felt. These all materials used in-between  both the layers(Body fab and lining) Attached with body fab with basting stitch. 

Before sewing these materials in product. Theses materials get assemble together as per there shape and materials( chest canvas sew along with yoke canvas and chest felt where as sleeve canvas stitched with sleeve head felt).

e) Assembly section: Once all parts sewing get completed(Body, lining , sleeve and canvas). These all parts get assembled in one sewing section which know as assembly section. 

 In this section Outer layer get stitched with lining layer and then sleeve get attached with these both in such way that stitch line should not be visible out side so all sewing operation done from inside only.

Lots of special sewing machine req to assemble a jacket. Shoulder pad attachment and  Button hole also made in this section only.

Step -10

After jacket sewing done, Finishing process get started, It includes - Thread Cutting, Pressing, Buttoning, Checking, tagging . 

* Stitched jacket have less thread to cut as there sewing operation done inside and most of thread got trimmed in stitching line only.

* For jacket Pressing there is lots of special pressing equipment require to give proper body shape to a jacket. for example  

Body pressing machine: This equipment have body shade to give same look to a jacket while pressing.

Like that every parts pressing machine is available in market to give proper shape to each part of jacket like- Lining pressing, Sleeve pressing, Lapel pressing , Sleeve neeping,  shoulder pressing etc.

* Buttoning done once pressing got completed  because if button get attached previous to press might leave shining on garment while pressing.

* Section wise checking is the process which got followed in sewing line. But final checking done after pressing to see the actual impact of shape and other aspects of the product.

* If there is any tag or label(Label on sleeve) which require to added in garment get done in finishing section.

* Step -11

Packing process is the last part of jacket or apparel manufacturing. In this section garment get embellished with price tag , any other decorative tag or lapel pin. After tagging its get hanged on brand hanger if any and then polybag put upon it as well suit cover get added if req. 

Now the jacket is ready to dispatch either by hanging mode or in carton packing mode. Hanging mode is recommendable for formal category.

Hope this article helps you in the way you were looking for it. 

 

Jacket BOM(Bill Of Materials) for production

JACKET OR BLAZER BILL OF MATERIAL: Jacket bill of material suppose to be the list of raw materials used in jacket manufacturing with there category, description, require quantity and other sourcing aspect details which helps merchandiser to track there orders and get all required raw materials  on time before production start date.

A bill Of material suppose to be centralized source of information containing complete list of items(raw material) used to manufacture a jacket.

A format require to gather information about all raw materials to make a proper BOM.

See below stander format of a jacket BOM. Format can be extended as per information availability. 

How to make BOM for jacket:

Step- 1  Order information is the first requirement while making Jacket BOM which suppose to be displayed on top of the format. Order information include all below data about the jacket order.

*Item, Buyer and style information

*Fit of blazer and season information.

*Order qty along with size break up detail.

*Order receiving date and dispatch date information.

*Production start date

*Merchant Name, Approval By, Etc

Step-2 After order information entry, product information require to display in BOM. It includes complete information about raw materials starting with item description to procurement status. See below the list of information req to make a stander BOM.

* Raw material Category

* Material description, color and size of material.

* Material Consumption and unit of measure.

* Material require, stock availability.

* Ordering quantity, supplier, material ETD and ETA.

* Remarks, status and other crucial information if any.

Step-3 The crucial part of BOM of jacket or any other product starts from the third step of entry where need to make list of raw material and then have to get there final consumption as per product styles and there pattern. 

Each and every material which require to make a product till there packing stage starts from fabric or yarn need to have in this list so there not any interruption come on the time of production.

BOM raw material consumption should be accurate so no shortage or access will occur on or after production(Some common items is the exception in this criteria as they ordered in bulk and utilized in most of products like Inner trims, cello tape, lock pins, etc).

Extra consumption need to be finalize for each particular material as per there behaving nature or as per there wastage calculation. Order qty plays most important role while selecting extra percentage of material.

Material Description need to be very clear in this list so item which got purchased by others also should be as per requirement or else it results to be wrong purchasing which convert into production loss due to actual material unavailability.

While making a BOM of any product, Merchants should have to be very care full while making entry of product description , there consumption, unit of measure, extra consumption, stock availability and others.

As a Merchant while you are studying product for there raw material uses, your concentration label should be as per garment technician who check each part of product from outer side as well inner side and then product specification who made at by a merchant, to see where and what type of construction is there and what materials require to make the product. It helps to understand the consumption of materials and total no of material require.

Consumption finalization can be done by taking help of cad dept/IE dept also by self evaluation of product.  

  

Jacket or blazer material list can be categories in three divisions as per there requirement.

a* Cutting

b* Sewing

c* Finishing and packing  

Cutting BOM of jacket/blazer : In this list all material should be interred as per cutting section need.

Jacket or blazer cutting BOM list suppose to contain the below list.

This list got prepared as per standard jacket construction. This list might get change if the style and pattern of jacket will be deferent.  item description need to be selected as per raw material purchasing source availability. Name of article also get change per supplier code so it can traceable from supplier as well from our end to avoid wrong purchasing.

Before releasing BOM for purchasing, all materials should have customer approval or self approval as per end customer requirement.

Sewing BOM of Jacket/Blazer:- Sewing requirement list of blazer should be in this list. Here one thing need to be focused that size wise materials requirement suppose to be as per order size break up.

Go through below stander blazer sewing requirement list.

Same material change equation apply which have gone through cutting BOM list of a blazer.

Finishing/Packing BOM of Jacket/Blazer: After sewing jacket or blazer got moved to finishing and packing section which might be combined or separate sections.

Finishing of blazer is nothing but pressing and tucking, after that blazer moved to packing section where the below list of material req to pack the product. 

Material change equation same as per cutting and sewing. Most of time blazer shipped in hanging mode where the list of packing get change as there no requirement of cartons and there sticker but the new requirement arrived as per container construction requirement.

Hope this article will help you to make or understand the BOM of blazer or other products.

Uses of canvas in Jacket production

Jacket Canvas:  Canvas is nothing but a type of fabric which having plain weave made out with cotton, Linen, synthetic and wool  yarns.

Canvas fabric is also known for being Durable, Heavy duty and sturdy. Canvas having water resistant or Water proof nature as per its yarn combination.

 When we are talking about the uses of canvas in jacket manufacturing, Firstly have to know where and why canvas require in jacket or suit manufacturing.

High quality product jacket manufacturer are using canvas on Mostly three parts in blazer or jacket as per jacket technicians requirement to give rich and fabulous look.

1. Chest Canvas: In Jacket manufacturing ,canvas can be used on chest part as per design and quality requirements. Mostly chest canvas can be categories into two parts in blazers(Half canvas and Full Canvas. 

Half canvas: Length of canvas inside jacket suppose to be shorter in length compare to front jacket length. Mostly half canvas size should be on around waist length. for fixation of canvas bridal tape should be used along with body net(Woven) fusing. Body net fused along with  body fabric parts in front panel of a blazer so canvas and woven fusing is holding body fabric to get a proper body shape as per pattern of a blazer. Felt is also req on front area over canvas to cover the harshness of canvas  and built the chest shape properly.

Full Canvas: Length of canvas will be as per front length  of a blazer. It covers all front panel area. Other all materials used as per half canvas jacket only. Full canvas used in blazer to give more formal look . Mostly full canvas jacket is getting designed for straight fit body shape.

2. Yoke Canvas: Canvas can be used on yoke parts in front panel. Technicians are suggesting to use yoke canvas because the human body shape having some unevenness comparing to shoulder and chest area. To full fill the proper shoulder drop, getting matched with chest fall, yoke canvas is playing important role by using it over chest canvas only on yoke area. Double layer of canvas on yoke area is covering the human body shape properly as per formal look requirement of designs.

Yoke canvas length get decided by pattern makers as per body measurements.

3. Shoulder canvas: Canvas is also require on shoulder area of a jacket. Specially canvas require on sleeve attachment areas as jacket sleeve fall is always being straight. While sleeve getting attached with jacket body, It gives straight fall look because canvas is holding both shoulder and sleeve together.

Some times shoulder pad is also having canvas on its upper area but the quality of canvas suppose to be thinner and smother compare to other two canvas.

Horse hair canvas is most popular in jacket manufacturing due to its nature. It enhance the look of blazer shape because its bounciness nature. Cost of horse hair canvas is high so these days manufacturers believe in synthetic canvas uses as synthetic canvases are look like similar to horse hair canvas and its behave also like horse hair canvas as per quality. economically synthetic canvas is preferred by most of manufacturers these days.

Jacket or Suit Fusing Guidelines

Jacket Or Suit Fusing: 

When we are talking about jacket manufacturing then we have to go through internal material requirement of a jacket where fusing plays a significant role. Good quality jackets or suit need to be fused on several parts while its get sewn to give good drape upon wearing. In this blog you will find out why fusing require on several parts of jacket or suit and how we can use interlinings to make a quality product.

Here we go Through part wise fusing guidelines of a quality product jacket or suit:-

Front Panel fusing: Three types of fusing commonly used to make a jacket or suit. After detailing of all these three fusing will see where have to use these fusing in front panel and side panel as well on sleeve.

1. Woven fusing:- Also known as Body net fusing. Mostly used on front panel of jacket. For Jacket and suits polyester woven fusing is preferred to use with GSM Varies  between  40 to 90 as per fabric material and there thickness. Below are the benefits of woven fusing on garments.

* It helps to give curve and shape to garments.

* Enhance wrinkle resistance and elasticity of clothes.

* It Improves garment drape and enhance the stereo feeling.

* Prevents garment distortion and ensure to achieve an anticipative  design effect.

* Enhance the sense of thick, rich and warmness of clothes.

* It improves sewing efficiency and so on.

Note: Body net fusing color selection should be as per shell fabric. If fabric is lighter color then fusing color should be lighter or else darker color fusing will visible out side. Same applied for darker shell fabric also - if shell fabric is darker color then the fusing color selection should be also dark color only.

2. Non woven fusing: Also known as micro dot fusing. Uses of micro dot fusing on parts depends upon fabric quality and garments design. 100% polyester material prefer for making jacket and suits. GSM of the fusing varies between 15 to 50 as per fabric quality. See below specifications of micro dot fusing on garments.

* Enhance shrink resistance of shell fabric.

* Increase tear capability of shell fabric.

* It gives soft feel to fabric.

Note: Fusing color selection should be as per shell fabric color. Lighter color fusing for light color shell and dark color fusing for darker color shell fabric.

3. Reinforcement Fusing:- Also Non as NR Fusing. 100% Polyester material with  thread inside which helps to control fabric stretch-ability to give proper shape to the garment without any shape distortion.

Uses of These three fusing on front panel and side panel of jacket or suit:

Look at the below picture of fussed front panel of jacket with these above all three fusing. Will go through the detailing of uses after seeing the image.

 * Darker area indicates uses of woven fusing. Its mostly used on front part to give harder oval look  to jacket which is the first requirement of it.

* Non woven fusing used on shoulder area after using woven fusing as shoulder shape need to be more stuff while making jacket or suits. Its also used on other parts like side and arm hole separately to give shapes on those area's.

* On the above image we can able to see that NR fusing mostly got used on side seam area's as well on corner's to hold the fabric drop if upon stitching even the if the fabric wait is more.

Note:- Canvas is also playing master roll in jacket or suit manufacturing. Will go through canvas detailing in my next blog.

 

  

Jacket/Blazer manufacturing machine requirement

Jacket/ Blazer Manufacturing: Jacket or blazer making in garment industry is still a challenging job due to its technical requirement as well the special machines requirement.
There are countable number of manufacturer available for making blazer / suits in textile hub countries due to its high grade special  machine requirement and due to the cost of establishing the manufacturing plant is high.

Here we go through the types of machine requirement which is commonly used for a Jacket or Blazer manufacturing unit.

1. Single needle lock stitch machine:- This is the basic common machine requirement for all garment industries including Blazer/ Suit manufacturing unit. For set up of blazer/ Jacket manufacturing line this machine is the first requirement.

2. Welting Machine: There are 3-4 Welt pocket is commonly used in a blazer or Jacket In some design its more. Special automatic welting machine requirement is there for making bone pockets either its single bone Pkt or Double Bone pkt with Flap. If these pockets will be made manually then it will cost high as well require 6-7 time more man power. Average capacity of making Pkt per day with this machine is approx- 1200-1400 Pcs in a day.

3. Zigzag industrial stitching Machine:- This machine is used for Zigzag stitch on Chest pkt as well for collar felt attachment which is commonly used in this industries. This machine requirement will be on body and lining section.

4. Blind Hem stitch machine:- This machine used for blind hem inside the jacket for attaching chest piece as well used on other place if requirement is there. Machine requirement will be as per line capacity set up .

5. Flap Making automatic Machine:-These days this machine is in trend for this industries as it saves time for making flap automatically with help of jig profile as per shape requirement. Flap is basic requirement for both front pkt of a blazer.

6. Arm hole tape attach Machine:- This machine used to attach tape on armhole area for giving fullness as per sleeve adjustment. To run this machine operators need to be educated about the fullness requirement of product so they can control the machine as per product guideline.

7. Run Stitch with Edge cutter Machine:- This machine used for attachment of lining with body panel. Specially helps to give proper fullness at hem area. Operators need to be get proper guideline to use this machine as per product requirement. Number of machine requirement as per line capacity set up.

8. Tacking machine:- This machine used for tacking edge of facing and bottom edge of collar to break the lapel as per shape. No of machine require as per line capacity set up.

9. Sleeve Attaching machine:- Sleeve part made in separate section as well body and lining made separate for jackets. after body and lining assemble sleeve need to be attach through this special machine. Number of machine require as per line capacity set up.

10. Sleeve lining attach to armhole along with shoulder pad:- This machine helps to attach sleeve lining parts along with shoulder pad to armhole with control on stitch requirement as per shape of armhole. No of machine require as per line capacity set up.

11. Key hole Machine:- Most of all blazer require same hole on sleeve and keyhole on front part as well on lapel. minimum two machine require for one line set up( One in sleeve section and another one in assembly section).

12. Button attach machine:- Mostly jacket having two size of button requirement(24L&32L). 24 l buttons used on sleeve same hole and inside lining pkt where as 32L button used on front part. Minimum two machine require for line set up( One in sleeve section and another in Finishing section).

13. Bar tack Machine:- Bar tack used on jackets pkt mostly on inside pkts. This machine also helps in vent tuck cross stitch after changing the frame. No of machine requirement as per line capacity set up.

14. Flat steam iron Table:- Pressing tables require in jacket manufacturing on various operation. Manufacturing unit decides to use no of flat steam iron table as per there line capacity set up.

15. Shoulder pad fixing pressing machine:- This machine helps to fix the shoulder pad on body with pressing. This machine require on body stitching section. One machine is req for one line set up.

16. Front Pressing Programming machine: Jacket finishing req types of Buck pressing machine and flat pressing machine for jacket pressing.Manufacturing units are using pressing machine as per there requirement. Different types of machine req part wise pressing.
Here we go step wise pressing machine requirement.
For first step pressing(Front pressing) below pressing machine req to press the front panel of jacket to give the proper front shape of jacket.

17.Back and side Pressing Machine:- Buck machine should have the shape as per back and side to press the back and side jacket as per there shape.

18. Lapel pressing Machine: Lapel is the main attractive part of jacket and for giving its proper shape there is a need of lapel shape buck machine. Below machine helps to give the shape.

19. Shoulder and armhole pressing machine:- This type of steam pressing req to press the shoulder and arm hole area of a jacket.This machine designed as per shape of armhole and sleeve to give proper  shape.

20. Sleeve Pressing machine:- Jacket sleeve is having there specific shape. Sleeve shape Buck req to press these area. This machine helps to give the proper shape of Sleeve.

21. Sleeve Nipping Machine:- After sleeve pressing there are some touch up req on armhole area to give the clean finish look. This small buck machine helps to clean sleeve top part.

22. Lining Pressing Machine:- To give clean inside finish of a jacket, Lining pressing machine req. This machine helps to press lining.

23. Small part or repressing Machine:- Some small buck steam pressing machine req to give clean finish everywhere in jacket. This machines used to press the all those parts which was not covered by advance automatic pressing machine listed above.

24. Final Touch up pressing machine:- While pressing the jacket through automates machine - some wrinkles might occur on some parts which is getting cleared manually through this machine.

Some more machines can be used by manufacturer as per there convenience as jacket operations handled by highly technical persons and operation can deffer from one to other experts as all experts having there own concept of making jackets.

Easy steps to learn - Jacket or Garment Merchandising

Apparel Merchandising:-

Merchandising process involves the production of designs and distribution of final product to end users. In other sentence -A person who deals with product or merchandise is called as merchandiser. Merchandisers are working closely with designers to ensure that designs will be affordable and desired by the target market.

Garment merchandising can be divide into two types:

1. Retail merchandising:-Retail merchandisers manage store allocation and maximise the sales.

2. Product merchandising: Product merchandiser manage the flow of materials to suppliers and flow of product to store and then pass the control to retail merchandiser.

How to learn product merchandising: Go through the below steps to learn product merchandising of garment in easy way.

Step-1
Product Study:-
Merchandiser have to study the product before dealing with it. If the product is garment then go through the below information about product.
* Product design and specification.
* Garment fit or spec detail
* Construction detail
* Labelling and Packing Information
* Trims and there consumption

Step-2

BOM preparation: As an apparel merchandiser prepare the bill of material or list of material for a product. Garments BOM can categories into four divisions -Cutting,stitching,finishing and packing.

Cutting Bill of Material List -Includes Fabrics,Contrast Fabrics,Linings, Pocketing and Types of Interlinings.Consumption work out need for all material with the help of cad or cutting team for this division.

Stitching BOM:- Each and every material which require  to complete the design as per construction requirement listed in this category. Material list can be short and long as per design and technical requirement of the product.

Finishing and Packing BOM:- Finishing and packing of garment need several trims as per customer requirement. Merchandiser have to get all information about packaging from buyers. It includes branding, retail price,product safety and etc.

Step-3
TNA Making:- Merchandiser have to make TNA(Time and action plan) sheet to execute and order. They have to work closely with each dept and customer to fix the time line of each process in this sheet. As per TNA time line merchandiser have to commit the delivery date of an order to customer or as per delivery date asked by customer has to make TNA(depends upon customer comfort).This sheet includes activity like materials procurement,sample submission, production planing,etc.

Step-4
Cost break down(CBD) Making:- Cost factor is playing main role for any business. Merchandiser need to make proper cost break down sheet for a product to Negotiate with customer and supplier. To make a proper CBD merchandiser have to get below information.
* Trims cost
* Man power cost
* Finance cost
* Transportation and documentation cost
* Margin
* Other cost

Step-5
Materiel Or Trims Study:- As a merchandiser trims information is necessary to deal with product. For each and every trims need to collect below information to offer it to customer for selection and after selection its help to purchase the material.
* Material Type
* Material Composition
* Material Construction
* Material Color
* Material Size
* Material source
* Article No
*Etc

Step-6
Trims Purchasing:- After taking approval from customer, merchandiser have to generate Purchase requirement of each material with the help of BOM. Stock availability information need to check before raising Purchase order. Purchasing follow up from supplier can be taken care by purchase team or by merchandiser depends upon organisation setup.

Step-7
Co-ordination and Follow up- Merchandiser is working as bridge between production unit and buyers. They have to work closely along with all dept and customer to pass out the information to each others to meet customer requirement. Merchandiser have to involve in all production activity to ensure on time production. They also need to know about quality stander of customer to check each activity to ensure quality product supply.

Step-8
Shipping and Documentation:- Shipment or dispatch is the last step of garment merchandising. For arranging dispatch of material merchandiser have to collect below data for proper documentation and safe delivery of product.

* Consignee address and details
* Shipment mode
* Shipment term
* Shipping Method
* Shipment value
* Shipment wt
* Shipment volume
* Logistic information
* Payment Term
* Shipper information
*Etc